THE ANNIVERSARY ISSUE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
October 15
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THE PERFUME MAGAZINE LOGO & BANNER
Perfume Magazine Brand Consultant: Tim Girvin
Our logo was created by GIRVIN | Strategic Branding, based in Seattle, NYC, and Tokyo. This is a specially built font that their design team created exclusively for Perfume Magazine. It is a custom cutting, redrawn and founded on a type design originated in 1798 by Giambattista Bodoni, drawn from the archives of Firmin Didot, an exemplar of luxurious design principles for hundreds of years. GIRVIN's team built the "fume" trail, as well as composited the arrangement of the bottles as part of the branding strategy.
The Perfume Magazine Banner was designed exclusively by GIRVIN and is the property of The Perfume Magazine, LLC.
All images appearing in the banner are registered trademarks of their respected company and are used with permission.
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The logo and banner are property of The Perfume Magazine, LLC. and are protected by U.S.and international copyright laws.
© Copyright. 2012. All Rights Reserved. The Perfume Magazine LLC 2012
THE SUMMER ISSUE - AUGUST 23
This issue celebrates the anniversary of our very first astounding year. Already, we have had a year full of memories and serious accomplishments. Michael Edwards introduced The Perfume Magazine at Esxence – The Scent of Excellence in Milan, Italy stating that “The Perfume Magazine is one of the most influential blogs and is part of a new generation”. The Perfume Magazine attended the perfume event of the year by attending the FiFi Awards Breakfast, then back again to attend the FiFi Awards at Lincoln Center in New York City. We attended the top three artistic niche perfume events in the world, traveling to Milan as media partners with Esxence, The Scent of Excellence, on to Pitti Fragranze in Florence Italy and attending Elements Showcase NYC. The Perfume Magazine also attended the 1st Annual Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco where I was invited to be a judge, and I also had the huge honor of being interviewed by The Fragrance Foundation. One of our biggest accomplishments this past year was when The Perfume Magazine walked away with two of the Top-5 Finalist Editorial Excellence In Fragrance Coverage: Blog or E-Zine FiFi Awards, adding to the previous 4 top-five finalist nominations garnered by the Magazine under the name of Sniffapalooza Magazine thus making history as the only American publication with six top-five FiFi Awards for Editorial Excellence. The year is not over yet; in next months issue - we will offer a rare look behind-the-scenes of Santa Maria Novella with insider pictures and an interview with Gianluca Foa, the man responsible for taking the brand Global.
We also took our readers to the French FiFis and the American Fifi's, giving an exciting peek inside the perfume industry. And finally, we published over twenty interviews with top perfumers and industry insiders, including the long awaited interview with the esteemed Michael Edwards. The Perfume Magazine has also been applauded as the very first perfume website in the world to offer a ground breaking article by Fragrance Expert Marian Bendeth titled “Proliferation of Perfume Communication” which has spawned numerous conversations world-wide.. And this is all between the issues of The Perfume Magazine! The best part of the Perfume Magazine though, has been our many wonderful contributors as well as our advertizers, each offering a different look into the world of perfume. Managing Editor Mark David Boberick and I want to take a moment to express our sincerest appreciation and thanks for an OVERWHELMING response to the Magazine. In just one short year, The Perfume Magazine has been read by tens of thousands of people in over 150 countries around the world. We thank you and are very grateful for this wonderful year. Enjoy this latest issue of The Perfume Magazine.
- RAPHAELLA BARKLEY | Editor In Chief
BRAND-NEW from
Lorenzo Villoresi
Mare Nostrum
Aura Maris
By Mark David Boberick
Guy Robert: A Tribute
___________________________________
by Michael Edwards
Guest Contributor
We're Having a Heat Wave!
Raphaella and Mark David profile two Tom Ford fragrances perfect for a relentless Summer!
Tales of a Red Hot Summer
by Mark David Boberick
Managing Editor
EXCLUSIVE:
(you saw it here first)
Robert Piguet Parfums
to launch
petit fracas
. . . a new fragrance inspired by the original iconic perfume.
and
The Pacific Collection
nose:
New Fragrance Boutique In Paris
Born from a team of 7 beauty professionals and enthusiasts Nose is a concept beauty store and an online shop, solely dedicated to creator brands, centered around a single idea: running personalized perfume diagnostics. "Deux ans d’intense brainstorming pour que Nose, le concept store bien senti, voit le jour…"Deux ans d’intense brainstorming pour que Nose, le concept store bien senti, voit le jour…"
I have never truly understood the dotted line that perfume appreciators draw between sex and the animalic family of perfume odors. I grew up on a farm and being surrounded by animals never once inspired thoughts of life’s carnal pleasures. Unlike the scent of flowers, these odors are not the easiest to fall in love with, yet there is a section of the perfumed population that revel in it. Lovers of this quality in perfume affectionately describe it as skanky. There are a number of materials that make up this family of animalic perfume notes. Civet tincture, made from the excretion of a civet cat, it is assumed to attract a sexual partner, is one example...
The 4 new fragrances will debut this September in Florence, Italy!
In this emotional tribute, renowned fragrance expert and author Michael Edwards remembers his dear friend and mentor, perfumer Guy Robert, who passed away on May 28, 2012.
Robert was the creator of many iconic perfume legends including Hermes Caleche, Equipage, Doblis, Madame & Monsieur Rochas, and Amouage Gold Woman & Man, among others.
You wanted it. We have it. The Perfume Magazine's "Tour de Force" Paris
Correspondent Sarah Colton, takes us on a passionate journey to the world-renowned
French FIFI's. Join us for this exclusive look inside the French FiFi Awards.
The French FiFi Awards
Celebrating 20 Years of Creativity and Innovation
by Sarah Colton | Paris Correspondent
On one of the first balmy evenings of summer, the best and the brightest of the French perfume industry gathered at the elegant Salle Wagram – just down the street from the Arc of Triumph -- to catch up on each other’s news, feast on the best food and wine on the planet, and of course, award and celebrate achievement...
The New Niche |
by Sarah Colton
Paris Correspondent
SMELL A FRAGRANCE:
Anatomy Of Emotions
By Dr. Francesc Montejo
NoteS: A Scent Aria
Robert Piguet Nouvelle Collection
by Christine Lewandowski
NoteS de Robert Piguet is the only Fougère in the Nouvelle Collection. It is a stunning example of material synergy: single elements morph into a scent beyond what they are as individuals, creating a greater, more effective, more beautiful composition...
MANDY AFTEL
Aftelier Perfumes
Mandy Aftel in NY Times
+ Williams-Sonoma Launch
Aftelier Chef's Essences®
at Williams-Sonoma Nationwide & Online
TasteTV is pleased to announce that the People's Choice Awards for the 1st Annual Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco have been released on the event site here.
I hate the heat. It’s true, I do. I don’t even like it a little bit. Catch me in January and I am happy as a clam. Since I have it on good authority that I was an Inuit in a former life, I am forced to carry around “Wet Floor” signs from June through September, for fear someone may slip on the pool of perspiration created by my forehead. And let’s face it folks, that’s an insurance claim that no one wants to have to answer to. Merely opening my front door can cause me to start sweating profusely, so you can imagine I’m a real sight to behold outdoors on a hot summer day. . .
AZURE LIME
Mark David Boberick
Featuring: MiN New York,
Sospiro, Alvarez Gomez,
& Torre of Tuscany...
TASTE TV: Award Winners,
San Francisco Fragrance Salon
BEST OF SALON AWARDS
PEOPLE'S CHOICE AWARDS
FINDING YOUR
SECOND SKIN
________________________
by Clayton Ilolahia
The Perfume Magazine's Sarah Colton, takes us on a perfumed journey and speaks with The French niche Perfumers at the 2012 world-renowned French FIFI's: Patricia de Nicolaï, Frédéric Malle, Maurice Roucel, Shyamala and Antoine Maisondieu, Antoine Lie, Aurélien Guichard and the “Father of Niche", Jean-Claude Ellena” about Niche Perfumery.
When we smell a fragrance, a magical process takes place that is predominantly involved in the brain. In turn, this phenomenon creates emotions and feelings that are more than a mere psychological process. Inhaling a perfume can sometimes involve a sensory adventure of unimaginable consequences, even though we capture only a small part of reality, almost incomprehensible, that surrounds us...
Velvet and Sweet Pea's Purrfumery
Fleur de Caramel
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
Laurie Stern is a true artist who makes everything that she touches more beautiful; actually I don’t think that she can help it. Her very nature is to transform the ordinary into something extraordinary and her products although perfect in every way are only part of the magic....
CHAMPACA ABSOLUTE
Raphaella Barkley
&
CREED Vanisia
Perfect For Fall
By Raphaella Barkley
In English and Italian...
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the sold out event in Milan, Italy this past March. Join us for a peek inside Esxence and some of the perfume companies that were represented in Milan Italy. We spoke with Stefano Roni, Press Officer of Torre of Tuscany...
A Taste of Esxence:
Torre of Tuscany
Dario Torre
THEARCHIVES
THE SUMMER ISSUE - August 23, 2012
THE JUNE ISSUE - June 10, 2012
THE ESXENCE ISSUE - April 24, 2012
THE SPRING ISSUE - March 25, 2012
THE WINTER ISSUE Part Two - January 23, 2012
THE WINTER ISSUE Part One - December 30, 2011
THE HOLIDAY ISSUE - December 1, 2011
THE MENS ISSUE- November 1, 2011
THE FALL ISSUE- October 1, 2011
THE DEBUT ISSUE - September 10, 2011
(formerly Sniffapalooza Magazine)
Over 1000 Articles and Interviews - an ENORMOUS body of work for endless hours of reading
pleasure including the incredible interview with International Fragrance Expert Michael Edwards!
So put your kettle on, change into your pajamas, turn your cell phone off and dive right in!
Ten brands of excellence,
ten stories of fragrances!
In occasion of Fragranze 10, Pitti Immagine will present the online format on the notes of the best artistic perfumery. A special perfumed tour to discover ten brands that have made their mark in the world of artistic perfumery: the story, creators, noses and the founders of the most exclusive, bespoke perfumes and top quality artisan essences...GREAT IMAGES...
Petit Fracas
Robert Piguet Parfums
“Not A Flanker!”
By Raphaella Barkley
When I first saw the name of the latest release of Robert Piguets “Petit Fracas”, I must admit, I may have actually groaned. Just a little.
Worried that this would be the obligatory flanker in the making, I prepared myself for the worst. To take the iconic Queen Fracas and churn out something similar...
A Perfume Magazine exclusive video featuring Robert Piguet Parfums.
The sensual combination of Bulgarian roses mixed with ambergris and amber, as created here by CREED, is superbly well crafted. It also smells “expensive” and superbly refined as only a CREED can do. I think Vanisia has long been ignored, but in thinking back, I find that I have secretly loved this fragrance for many years...
By Pitti Immagine
Master Perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi is decidedly not prolific, and we are all the better for it. He is the perfect example of the glories that can occur when one takes their time. Masterpieces cannot be created in large batches – let’s face it, Da Vinci didn’t churn out canvas after canvas. With the recent boom of niche perfumery, the large majority of lines are suffering from too much of a good thing. We don’t really need more lines launching 12 fragrances at a time. What we need is one fragrance that has been contemplated, studied, refined, edited, and perfected. . .
December 23
By Clayton Ilolahia
Looking Back My
2012 Favourites
The December holiday season is a time of year I look back on the way the year unfolded, I appreciate the highlights then cringe and hopefully learn from the lowlights. From the perspective of a perfume collector, it has been an interesting year with no shortage of new perfume launches to choose from. I added a record number of bottles to my collection, I think due in part to the sheer amount of quality coming from all areas of the perfume industry; niche, mass market and luxury perfumery. Below are four of my perfume highlights for the year, each perfume interesting for different reasons...
By BETH SCHREIBMAN GEHRING
On The First Day Of Christmas...
On the first day of Christmas my true love gave to me; a flacon of Petite Cherie!
On the Sixth day of Christmas my true love gave to me; Six Fracas Gift sets, Five Bond 9 Candles, The Four new Tom Ford Perfumes, Three Peartinis, Two Lalique bottles and a flacon of Petite Cherie! ...
Spotlight on American Artistic Niche
Fragrance Brands on the Paris Retail Market
By Sarah Colton
One of the biggest ironies about the French niche perfume market is that it is tiny compared to its European neighbors. Accused of chauvinism and barricading its doors to non-French brands, France has long been the most closed of the niche perfume markets in Europe. Non-French brands that might be on fire in other countries have failed in their attempts to pierce the French market...
With over 50 images...
Ways of Seeing Perfume Advertising & the Case of Chanel No.5
By Elena Vosnaki
"It could be successfully argued that no other field of
advertising is more loaded with glamour than the one catering to commercial perfumes. And there are complex reasons for that claim"...
With over 70 images...
By Clayton Ilolahia
Olfactory Time Travel
For Men
What is the best perfume ever created for men? This is the inevitable question I am asked when meeting someone for the first time and my love of perfume becomes a topic of conversation. The question comes in many forms; sometimes I am asked if I could only wear one perfume for the rest of my life what would it be? What is my favourite perfume or what perfume could I not live without?
JULIET STEWART LAUNCHES JULIET PARFUM FRAGRANCE
JULIET To Be Exhibited
At Elements Showcase In
New York January 28-29
THE DECEMBER ISSUE PART 1
It's just so very French and feminine and no other perfumer can create that aromatic razor's edge of sensual/sexual tension like Aurélien Guichard. He is the master of the heady erotic art of tortuous understatement in perfume.
There's a shimmering sweetness in Mademoiselle that is reminiscent of an afternoon spent drinking Kir Royales and eating some fabulous chocolate yet at the same time...
The Perfume Magazine will be attending Elements Showcase NY next week. Look for Coverage in the February issue. Congratulations to all of the Nominees -RB
The Fragrance Foundation announced the official Indie nominees for The Fragrance Foundation (FiFi®) Award. The award — in its second year — recognizes creativity, artistry and the entrepreneurial spirit. presentation hosted by Elements Showcase on Monday, January 28, 2013.
Inside find the official 30 Indie fragrance nominees recognized by The Fragrance Foundation in alphabetical order...
THE DECEMBER ISSUE PART 2 DECEMBER 31
Pegasus
Parfums de Marly
By Raphaella Barkley
Debuting in America at Elements Showcase NY this weekend!
This is a masculine fragrance that is so beguiling, sexy and rich that it makes you wonder…why is this not famous? The sensational Pegasus by Parfums de Marley will take America by storm...
By Raphaella Barkley
Milan born Carla Fracci is a one of the world’s greatest ballerina's. When I found out that she would be showing her line of fragrances at Esxence Milan, my heart paused and I was filled with great excitement...The most recent release was Aurora at Esxence Milan, which was inspired by the ballet Sleeping Beauty...
Robert Piguet
Mademoiselle
New Fragrance Profile
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION ANNOUNCES THE OFFICIAL “INDIE” NOMINEES OF 2013
THEJUNEISSUE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
These past few months have been an exciting time for the Perfume Magazine. From being interviewed by the Fragrance Foundation, traveling to Milan for the world-class event Esxence Milan, then on to New York City to attend the FiFi Breakfast New York City where The Perfume Magazine placed TWO of the Top-5 Finalist positions for the category of "Editorial Excellence In Fragrance Coverage Blog or E-Zine", adding to the 4 (now 6) previous nominations garnered by the Magazine in 2009 and 2010. We are truly honored that two articles, Journey to the Heart of Fragrance by Neil Sternberg and On Making Sense Out of Scents by Elena Vosnaki were among the 5 Top Finalists. Congratulations to our Finalists and you can view the articles here. Continuing my schedule, I flew back home, only to head back to New York City to attend the exciting 40th Anniversary of the FiFi Awards (which is one of our cover stories below)
A close friend of mine and a professional in the perfume industry recently said to me "In the world of perfume, the Americans always want to know what the French are doing and the French always want to know what the Americans are doing". I realized just how correct and brilliant his statement was. Thus, we will now offer regular reports from Paris from our “American in Paris”, new Paris Correspondent Sarah Colton, a professional journalist and international author. Her in-depth involvement in the French perfumery scene for many years, gives her an exciting edge and her first article covers the upcoming French FiFi Awards.
In this issue of The Perfume Magazine, we offer three cover stories which features coverage of the 40th Annual FiFi Awards, with over 35 photographs, links to the winners of the recent FiFi Awards, Part Two interview with industry giant Michael Edwards, and an in-depth look at Robert Piguet President and CEO Joe Garces that includes exclusive breaking news. In other news, I have been invited to be a judge of the “1st Annual ARTISAN FRAGRANCE SALON," this summer in San Francisco and the info is below. If you missed our last spectacular huge issue which is devoted to Esxence, view here.
RAPHAELLA BARKLEY | Editor In Chief 
THE PERFUME MAGAZINE GOES TO THE FIFI'S!
By Raphaella Barkley, Editor-In-Chief
"I was enthralled the moment the event started; from the ultra glamorous red carpet, to the people-watching in the lobby prior to the show, to gulping my champagne as I rushed down to my seat, to meeting Nicole Richie and Carol Alt before the show, to the break-neck opening video where the audience cheered wildly for their favorite perfume, to the emotional and touching “Legacy of Excellence Tribute” to Evelyn Lauder of Estée Lauder...The crowd roared its approval and love...
How do you take an iconic French fragrance house with a range that includes some of the most legendary perfume masterpieces the world has ever known, and plant it firmly and distinctly into the perfume-crazed 21st Century? The simple answer: you hire Joe Garces. With the recent release of the Nouvelle Collection of 5 brand-new fragrances, Robert Piguet Parfums continues to take the luxury fragrance market head on. With Garces at the helm, no detail is ever overlooked.
As President and CEO of the brand since 1992, Joe Garces is one of the hardest working men in the fragrance industry...
TRUSTEE OF THE LEGACY
Joe Garces,
President of Robert Piguet Parfums
Releases The Nouvelle Collection
by Mark David Boberick
20 Years of the ‘Best Feminine’ & ‘Best Masculine’ Perfumes and Perfumers
Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of the French Fifis
By Sarah Colton
If you love perfume, this is a must see article...with wonderful pictures and pictures of French Perfumers and Perfumes - RB
"To add to the emotion, there was an international sizzle in the air as results of the American Fifis, which had taken place the previous evening in New York, were just beginning to make their way across the Atlantic..."
A Perfume Magazine Exclusive
MICHAEL EDWARDS
Expert and Author, Fragrances of the World
By Mark David Boberick
and Raphaella Barkley
I first met Michael Edwards in New York City in December of 2008 and sat down with him immediately following an impressive 2-hour master class that he had given which offered an incredible overview on his body of work. In that discussion, which was the first time in nearly ten years that Edwards had granted an interview, we talked about the foundations of his research and his entry into the fragrance industry.
When Michael Edwards speaks, you can become rather caught off guard by his eloquent brilliance and completely lose your train of thought after he says something utterly profound...
The Perfume Magazine scores TWO 2012 FiFi Award Top-5 Finalist Nods and the Winners of the FiFi Awards!
At the Fragrance Foundation's Annual FiFi Awards Finalists Breakfast, held in NYC at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, The Perfume Magazine walked away with TWO of the Top-5 Finalist positions for the category, Editorial Excellence In Fragrance Coverage: Blog or E-Zine, adding to the 4 previous nominations garnered by the Magazine in 2009 and 2010. We are truly honored that two article, Journey to the Heart of Fragrance, by Neil Sternberg and On Making Sense Out of Scents, by Elena Vosnaki were among the 5 Finalists. Congratulations to our wonderful contributors!
Here are the FiFi Winners 40th Anniversary of the FiFi Awards...
THE FRAGRANCE
FOUNDATION
INTERVIEW:
"Up Close And Personal with
The Perfume Magazine’s
Raphaella Barkley"
By Raphaella Barkley
Parfums Belle Fleur
Sa Majesté La Rose Candle Collection
Candle Love
The passionate luxuriousness of this candle is akin to a panther that purrs with contentment; with you, laying your head on it. This candle’s soul is a thousand years old. Velvet Santal is a candle to dream by and it explores the depth of "The Rose”. It is a deeply thoughtful and spiritual candle, which allows the subconscious and creative process to flow. Whoever created this, must know the secrets of life...
Fragrant Florence:
Scented Discoveries in the Heart of Tuscany
By Mark David Boberick
There can be no better feeling while traveling abroad than happening on something truly extraordinary. In Florence, one need only walk a few steps down ancient alleyways and something is sure to catch the eye. The visual: no doubt, what Florence does best.
Stroll the halls of the Uffizi Museum and witness the many wonders of the Renaissance - Botticelli, Da Vinci, and Verrochio. Climb the hundreds (trust me, an understatement) of steps of the masonry tower of the Palazzo Vecchio and get a birds eye view. . .
Click on the Beauty Fashion Cover on the left or the lower link to read the May, 2012 issue of Beauty Fashion Magazine.
My article on
Esxence Milan
is on page 41 & page 55.
Just flip the pages to read all the insustry news!
Images from
MILAN
Photographs by
Raphaella Barkley
Here, you will find nothing but photographs from Milan, which many of you have been asking for! As you can tell, I had my hand kissed often. (Those gallant Italian and French men, nothing can compare!)
The Proliferation of Perfume Communication
A Commentary by Marian Bendeth
Global Fragrance Expert
What is fascinating is that critics sprung up everywhere, too and most had a public opinion on something. Freedom of speech had reached the web and the world. Fragrance bloggers, some with creative names hiding their true identities, have garnered a following unprecedented in the print world, and cliques and followers formed around the globe...
It appears that some fragrances, perfumers and individuals have sometimes become public bashing piñatas for fun or boredom or both. This power of the invisible majority may have the ability to shut down a hot spot or new niche product launch very quickly... they read something inaccurate by someone who purports to be someone they are not...
The Perfume Magazine is honored to feature this ground breaking article, we are the first publication to produce something about this subject, that hits home for many...Kudos to Marian Bendeth.
Certificate Program In Perfumery: The Technique and Language of Perfumery and Selling Fragrances in NYC.
There are two new perfumery programs being offered to the general public at Pratt University in New York City. Raymond Matts from The Art of Perfumery will be lecturing at Session 2 and 3 of the Technique and Language of Perfume and Session 2 & 3 of The Fragrance Sales Program.
This is a new joint venture between Pratt and Cinquième Sens of Paris! Participants will experience a voyage into the world of perfumes, test your sense of smell, review the whole fragrance process from concept to market product. You will smell the key raw materials, understand the fragrance structure and memorize the various olfactive families..and much more..
This is a great opportunity for those living in the New York area. To read full infomation and to register, please visit site here.
There are basic rules that govern the gender or language of fragrance. Heavy resins, woods or leathery quinolines can colour a floral note with a sense of masculinity. The same floral note paired with aldehydes and musk becomes feminine. These concepts were forged at the beginning of the 20th century, the period that gave birth to modern perfumery. From this time, we see perfumers beginning to create abstract works of art; a perfume became conceptual instead of being the smell of a single flower such as violet or rose. Coco Chanel famously said that roses smell nice, but she did not understand why a woman would want to smell like roses. She requested perfumer, Ernest Beaux to make something that was entirely new, something mysterious. In 1921, Chanel launched No. 5 and it has been a symbol of femininity for almost a century. During the birth of modern perfumery, masculinity was cast as a powdery fresh fern. . .
Exploring
Masculinity
in Perfumery
by Clayton Ilolahia
THEARCHIVES
Raymond Matts
The Art of Perfumery
Double click here to add text.
The Tip of the Iceberg: Taking the Measure of American Niche at The Elements Showcase
By Sarah Colton
“Who are these people who are just rising out of nothing and breaking the rules?” -Nicole Miller, Elements Showcase
What I saw and felt at Elements was enormous power. The peculiar American power that burns in the wildness and freedom of the American psyche: capable of playing within barriers, yet not hesitating to bust through them to map out new territories -- when necessary or simply for sport. The elemental archetypical characteristics of niche fragrance – niche anything for that matter—run deep in the American spirit...
with 30 images...
Ramón Monegal - Pure Mariposa
New Perfume Review
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
The perfumes of Ramón Monegal have completely captivated me and allowed me to believe once again in the magic and true artistry that can be created when an exquisitely talented nose is given free rein over the tools needed to create olfactory alchemy. He has the sorcerer’s touch; they are crafted of pure emotion and the notes used are woven together like a rich and subtle tapestry. Move over Tom Ford. I think that I’ve fallen in love...
COMING IN 2023...
A
NEW PERFUME MAGAZINE
