THEFALLISSUE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
IN THIS ISSUE
October 1, 2011
The Perfume Magazine is an online fragrance magazine celebrating the art of fragrance offering fragrance reviews, articles,
press releases, interviews and events. The Magazine is a collaboration of fragrance lovers contributing to each issue and would not be possible otherwise.
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An Interview with
YANN
VASNIER
by
Mark David Boberick
French-born Perfumer Yann Vasnier is the unseen artist behind a string of massive hits in the contemporary Perfume World - one of which went on to win the prestigious FiFi award in 2010. His Portfolio is an impressive list that runs the gamut from mass-market to niche fragrances including work for Marc Jacobs, Parfums DelRae, Sarah Jessica Parker, Tom Ford, Divine, and Donna Karan to name just a few. Yann currently resides in New York City and is a perfumer for Givaudan. His latest fragrance for Tom Ford Beauty, Santal Blush is already garnering rave reviews for its exceptional composition and is one of this Fall's hottest and sexiest new releases.
I recently sat down with Yann for his first Interview with The Perfume Magazine.
Exclusive Video Series
CONVERSATIONS WITH
RAYMOND MATTS: Part I
by Mark David Boberick
Autumn In
New York
Vintage Edition
By Sali Oguri
ANDY TAUER
AT
Pitti Immagine Fragranze
By Marika Vecchiattini
“Tauer is like a box of chocolates:
you never know what you get” During Pitti Immagine Fragranze, I once again met with Andy Tauer, the outstanding independent perfumer from Switzerland. He was there to present his new trio of fragrances, named “Pentachords”. No flowers, no resins, no vetiver: a completely new approach from what he had been doing in recent years. Aldehydes and woody musks take the stage in all three compositions with interesting effects of light and texture, but they offer completely different experiences...
ARQUISTE:
New Fragrance Line Launches
"Meticulously researched using authentic sources and crafted with only the rarest of ingredients, each fragrance restores the olfactive experience of a particular time and place...Turning to his longtime love of perfumery, Carlos Huber studied fragrance development and collaborated with internationally-recognized noses in order to recapture the olfactive notes of historical moments..
PITTI
IMMAGINE
FRAGRANZE
Event Profile
By Marika Vecchiattini
An Interview with
Sandy Cataldo
and
Lynn Emmolo
of
A DOZEN ROSES
The idea of A Dozen Roses came up several years ago as Lynn had trademarked the name A Dozen Roses. We first talked about one fragrance with 12 incredible roses in it. But for me, I could immediately see how this one simple name could evolve into a perfumery concept that would be 12 fragrances all based on the beauty and emotion of roses. I envisioned a very high end concept for fragrance addicts. Lynn will tell you that I immediately wanted a boutique that was like a beautiful French perfumery combined with the lushness of a European garden but housed in a modern gallery....
CREED Tubereuse Indiana
Fragrance Profile
By
Beth Schreibman Gehring
_____________
It was one of THOSE Autumn days in Cleveland. If you live anywhere near Northeast Ohio I know that you know the type; cold, rainy, windy and really very gray. No amount of chili spiced hot chocolate was warming me up nor were my usual Irish sweaters and boots. I still wanted it to be summer, or at the very least show a glimpse of the Indian summer that we’re usually enjoying at this time of year but to no avail. The winds started to blow from Canada all across Lake Erie and I knew that today was just going to be one of those chilly fall days that was going to require a bottle of very good red wine and a long steamy bath. Not bad things exactly but I’m just not ready for snow. I needed to run a few errands and a couple of those led me to the nearest Saks Fifth Avenue...
Fragrance Profile
O’driù PARFUMS
By Giovanni Sammarco
Like the early arrival of a dear friend to a dinner party, fall's approach is welcome despite its hasty return. We can sense this harvest season's shift in the quality of light, subtle changes of temperature, and for those of us in the Northern Hemisphere, the passing of the Autumnal Equinox has undeniably marked our calendars. As perfume lovers, we now circle back to our cozy fragrances, those bottles filled with gourmand, ambery, and vanilla laden liquids. Chopard's Casmir and Guerlain's Spiritueuse Double Vanille...
Well, I can tell you right now that after saying no for the 4th time that all of my familial guilt crept in. So taking a deep breath I said "yes" to the persistent voice on the other end of the phone and then I did what any red blooded perfumista would do after agreeing to take on such a daunting task. I went sniffing!
I knew that I needed to find a fragrance that would allow me to feel like I belonged. So for a month I danced with the Serge’s and jitterbugged with the Creeds. I tangoed with the Bonds and waltzed with the Fords but nothing would do until I met Hermes’s 24 Faubourg and it was love at first sniff.
I knew instantly that it would be perfect...
Vanilla Clarity:
DSH Perfumes Vanille Botanique
By Trish Vawter
New Fragrance
Profile Exclusive
Launches Today At
Indie Scents
The Naughty Socialite
Hermes 24 Faubourg Fragrant Profile
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
Shalimar was presented in several different flacons over the years, all bottles will have a gilded label. The oldest design is it's original one from 1925, the urn shaped flacon by Baccarat, this design was also copied and used for Shalimar by the glass houses of Cristal Romesnil and Pochet et du Courval. I find that vintage Shalimar perfumes smell the best, as their perfume oils were more concentrated and didn't have the chemical smell that today's versions have. The vintage perfumes have a delightful musky and well rounded accord that are not comparable in the Shalimar of today...
Laurent ASSOULEN
Teams Up with Givaudan
Laurent ASSOULEN, pianist and composer, releases
his new album : MUSC. At the same time he will unveil the Olfactive and Musical display at the International Museum of Perfumery in Grasse through permanent exhibitions, to enhance his work of the perfumed concert, created in 2008 with the complicity of Guillaume Flavigny, perfumer of the prestigious house Givaudan.
Vintage Guerlain Shalimar
Fragrance Profile By Grace Hummel
Norell provokes within me a deep nostalgia for the 1960's New York of my past while strolling hand in hand with my very glamorous mother hunting the city for gorgeous jewelry as well as beautiful pieces of silver and china to line the shelves showcases of our store.
If I’m nervous about a board meeting it's my scent of choice. When I go to New York for the day it’s the perfume that I take with me. Norell goes from day to evening as easily as a winter white cashmere dress and a paisley shawl...
Tallulah Jane Naturals is a company with a heart. Perfumer Eleanor Jane has strived to create a company that is 100% natural, Leaping Bunny-certified, vegan, and ethically run. It is with this in mind that it comes as no surprise that her latest fragrance, Hope Eau de Parfum, was created with the American Cancer Society in mind. Eleanor’s latest fragrance is uplifting, vibrant, and overwhelmingly positive: it is liquid hope!
Tallulah Jane Naturals Hope Eau de Parfum
By Josie Plumey
Versace
Bright Crystal
Supports Breast Cancer Awareness
With a philosophy of accentuating the beauty of every woman, Versace is committed to supporting women where their beauty begins: within. That’s why during the month of October, Versace is donating a dollar from every purchase of 3.0oz Bright Crystal fragrance to Breast Health International, an organization dedicated to finding the cure for breast cancer and reducing the suffering caused by the disease worldwide. When you support the cause with the purchase of the 3.0oz bottle of the iconic Versace fragrance, you’ll receive a complimentary pink Versace umbrella—a symbol of our shared determination to find a cure.
Norell
A New York State of Mind
Fragrance Profile
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
HANAE MORI Parfums No. 4
New Fragrance Release
As Autumn closes in and the Summer heat takes a backseat for at least another 9 months, we are left with the perfect opportunity to add another layer of fragrance to our lives - this time, in our homes.
In our first Home Fragrance Column, we explore SALEM by Modern Alchemy, KYARA CLOVE by Belle Fleur and AMBER by Henri Bendel; candles that are sure to create the perfect environment for your home this Fall. If you love fine fragranced candles, we have hand-picked a trio that will suit even the most discriminating tastes and will leave your home with a warm and inviting scent. If you're not a regular candle burner, there are a few basic things that you should know before you strike the first match...
FALL RELEASES...
These are just a few of the newest fragrances available this fall...
Lubin - Black Jade
D.S. & Durga with Joya - Staghorn Sumac
Parfum D'Empire - Azemour
Parfums de Nicolaï - L'Eau Chic
Persephenie Perfume
HOME FRAGRANCE:
The Perfect Candles for Autumn
By Mark David Boberick
XXXX
Read The Rest of this Review
XXX
______________
On our way to Rose des Champs, a unique tourist-oriented raised farm open to the public in Quebec, Canada, we drove through a countryside enveloped in a kaleidoscope of colours, bathing the landscape with an inviting aura. As we stepped out of our bus, the owners of the farm, Norman Benoit and Claire Mercier as well as their employees, immediately made us feel welcome.
For centuries, the Damascus rose has been considered almost world-wide as a symbol of beauty and love. The most perfect of all flowers’ and ‘an emblem of perfection and faithfulness’ is how some Damascus rose enthusiasts describe this historic highly-scented flower. The frequency of its flowering and its perfume makes this magnificently fragrant rose a queen among the flowers. ..
Not yet a household name amongst lovers of Natural Botanical Perfumery, Berkeley CA based Yuko Fukami is in the genesis of what may prove to be a long and lucrative NBP career. Born in Japan, she emigrated to the states with her family when she was twelve, settling in the St. Louis, Missouri area. Her perfumes, few though they are at this point in time, share common denominators which embody American tastes in perfume and a triangulated balance of fine Japanese aesthetics, culturally diverse foods, and a passionate interest in the clean lines of Bauhaus style architecture.
Rose des Champs
THE ROSE MECCA OF QUEBEC
By Habeeb Salloum
Conversation with Perfumer Yuko Fukami
By Justine Crane
The Perfume Magazine
would like to thank all
of the sponsors and advertisers who helped to make our debut launch possible.
If you are interested in advertising
with us, please visit the CONTACT page for more information.
Welcome to the latest Issue of The Perfume Magazine. Our second Issue focuses on one of the busiest seasons in the Fragrance World - Fall! This issue features exciting new interviews, our brand-new Home Fragrance Column, as well as the first of our video series, Conversations with Raymond Matts. We also debut our latest feature, the Fragrance Profile, our new term for evaluating a fragrance in a positive way that places more emphasis on the feelings and emotions that a perfume conveys instead of on a pyramid of notes and technicalities. I will also add that some of our contributors have been with us since 2005 and many of us have written in this style for years.
Managing Editor Mark David Boberick and I also wanted to take a moment to express our sincerest appreciation and thanks for an OVERWHELMING response to the Debut Issue. In just a few short weeks, The Perfume Magazine has been read by thousands of people in over 110 countries around the world. Your support has enriched our mission to continue to deliver the absolute best in perfume journalism.
In this issue, we also feature a great variety of Giveaways! To enter any of these Giveaways, you must become a registered member of The Perfume Magazine Forums. Please feel free to sign our guest book by clicking on the link under the banner and show us the love. Be sure to tell your friends about The Perfume Magazine and, of course, you’re welcome to subscribe here for free. We also invite you to join us on Facebook and Twitter to receive updates in the quickest form. Thank you for reading! Please Enjoy!
RAPHAELLA BARKLEY / Editor-In-Chief
Click here to add text.
To celebrate the grand opening of
The Perfume Magazine, we are delighted to offer our readers a 40% discount on the book, Roja Dove: The Essence of Perfume.
“Fragrance fans will find heaven within the pages of this beautifully illustrated book….
Delicious.” Grazia
The Essence of Perfume is the first book by Roja Dove, and is as captivating as it is informative. Beginning with a comprehensive discussion of the sense of smell and the materials of the master perfumer, the book moves on to celebrate the great classics, the makers who brought them to life and the designers who gave them shape. In an age where the methods and motivations of the original perfumers are all but forgotten, Roja Dove reveals the gripping story of scent with all the passion and devotion of a true artist.
With beautiful photographs from unique and iconic perfume bottles, vintage and modern day advertisements, and featuring big name houses and characters, The Essence of Perfume is an ideal gift for anyone with an interest in beauty, fashion, perfume and design.
The retail price of the book is $29.95 – therefore with the 40% discount the price of the book will be $17.97 plus postage. For UK and Europe orders, we will place the order with our UK distributors. The price of the book is £19.95 therefore with the discount the price will be £11.97 plus postage.
To order at the discounted price, simply email Jessica at jess@blackdogonline.com with their delivery address and quoting
‘The Perfume Magazine Offer’ as the subject heading.
Special offer from
The Perfume Magazine.
40% discount on the book
Roja Dove
The Essence of Perfume.
Roxana Villa’s Illuminated Perfume To Bee
Fragrance Profile
By Josie Plumey
ANNOUNCING:
The
Perfume
Magazine
FORUMS
By Mark David Boberick
You are cordially invited to join a brand new
Virtual Fragrance Community!
The Perfume Magazine FORUMS is our newest and most exciting project! Registered members have the opportunity to interact with other fragrance lovers to discuss the world of Perfume and meet new friends along the way.
The FORUMS will also host our upcoming Contests, debuting in the October Issue. Only registered Forum members will be eligible to participate in what is sure to become a groundbreaking Giveaway series - so make sure you sign up TODAY!!
Exclusive Interview
MIRIAM
VARELDZIS
of
40notes
by
Mark David Boberick
Tauer Perfumes Pentachord Series
Fragrance Profiles
By Josie Plumey
Pandora manages to feel both vintage and modern; a truly rich and luscious chypre, it stemmed from a project whose goal was to use all-natural ingredients, some of which had only recently been made available. However, Dawn diverged from this project and added a few synthetic notes, focusing on recreating the classic Mousse de Saxe accord. The result is phenomenal. The opening of Pandora is a cool mix of fizzy aldehydes and fruity greens. The first time I wore it, I couldn’t help but be drawn to the delicious airy quality of the violet leaf and bergamot.
A beautiful rose de mai blooms on the skin...
Pandora
by
Dawn Spencer
Hurwitz
Fragrance Profile
By Josie Plumey
The retail price of the book is $29.95 – therefore with the 40% discount the price of the book will be $17.97 plus postage. For UK and Europe orders, we will place the order with our UK distributors. The price of the book is £19.95 therefore with the discount the price will be £11.97 plus postage.
To order at the discounted price, simply email Jessica at jess@blackdogonline.com with their delivery address and quoting
‘The Perfume Magazine Offer’ as the subject heading.
To celebrate the grand opening of
The Perfume Magazine, we are delighted to offer our readers a 40% discount on the book, Roja Dove: The Essence of Perfume.
THE DEBUT ISSUE SEPTEMBER 10, 2011
REACHING HEAVEN
An Interview With:
BERTRAND
DUCHAUFOUR
By Marlene Goldsmith
Bertrand Duchaufour is a perfumer of astonishing versatility and originality. He has been christened the “new Pope of niche fragrances,” a “master of the modernist style (Jardin du Poete),” as well as an artist who renders “ancient, classical beauty new (Paestum Rose).” His perfumes are often referred to as perfect works of art, and he created two of the greatest scents of our time, Timbuktu and Dzongkha. Duchaufour stands as one of the world’s finest contemporary perfumers.
Starting out as a trainee at the Lautier Florasynth group in Grasse and working with Florasynth Paris, he moved on to affiliations with such companies as Créations Aromatiques, Comme de Garçon Kyoto, Acqua di Parma, Eau d’Italie, L’Artisan Parfumeur, and Penhaligons...
The
Art and Passion
of
JOHN
BAILEY
An Interview
By Veronica Kavanagh
Amidst the flames and sparks of Bonfire Night, on November 5, 1981, John Bailey decided to become the master of his own destiny and has never looked back. Fueled by determination, talent and a passion for perfume, he created The Perfumers Guild, an ultra niche perfumery of limited edition and bespoke fragrances based on the idea of quality, luxury and dedication to the art of fine perfumery.
Starting his business long before the current proliferation of niche perfume houses, John’s roots in the fragrance and flavor world run deep, stretching from his apprenticeship with a venerable manufacturing chemist in the U.K. to the modern day perfume dynasties in Grasse, France. A passionate rose lover and member of the Royal National Rose Society, John built his business by exhibiting his hand-blended perfumes...
THE NOIR FLORAL
Abstract Trends:
2011 - 2012
By Sali Oguri
When an obscure indie brand called Odin New York launched their fragrances here in New York City, the word never quite reached the streets but stayed within the parameters of our tiny region of the perfumed blogosphere. Yet, who knew one of their offerings, Petrana 04 (black Jordanian iris), would become a finalist at the prestigious FiFi Awards, in one of the most relevant categories to the flavor and fragrance industry: Perfume Extraordinaire, a most coveted "jus" exemplifying true refinement based on a blindtest? Redolent of silent films, face powder and peaches-and-cream, Petrana is a unisex offering timewarping back to more traditionally *feminine fare (*by which I mean "maternalistic"), a classic Madonna fragrance featuring peachy, wooded rose, musk and lily a la Trésor,
Nahéma, Tocade...
ANNOUNCING:
The
Perfume
Magazine
FORUMS
By Mark David Boberick
You are cordially invited to join a brand new
Virtual Fragrance Community!
The Perfume Magazine FORUMS is our newest and most exciting project! Registered members have the opportunity to interact with other fragrance lovers to discuss the world of Perfume and meet new friends along the way.
The FORUMS will also host our upcoming Contests, debuting in the October Issue. Only registered Forum members will be eligible to participate in what is sure to become a groundbreaking Giveaway series - so make sure you sign up TODAY!!
Fragrance Review
Eau d'Italie
Jardin du Poete
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
Every now and then you are blessed with the gift of a perfume that is so truly wonderful that you feel that you could never live without it. For me, Eau d Italie’s luscious Jardin du Poete or The Poets Garden is that precious scent touching a very deep nerve and igniting my passions and my way too vivid imagination!
Jardin du Poete is a 2011 release by Eau d Italie that has been created for us by the absolutely brilliant Bertrand Duchaufour; a perfume so sumptuous, fresh and imaginative that from the moment I opened the bottle I had the feeling that I had been stolen from my life and dropped into the middle of a feisty historical romance.
I know that you know the type; a gorgeous and gossamer tale that is spun in the 17th century...
An Interview With:
Marina Sersale
and
Sebastian Alvarez
of
Eau d'Italie
Eau d'Italie sits high above the Mediterranean on one of the most gorgeous and coveted locations on the Amalfi Coast. According to Sirenuse legend, the Sirens' songs were compelled by a powerfully seductive scent - a cocktail of magnolia, tuberose, honey and musk. After the end of the Second World War, the noble Neapolitan Sersale family reunited at their 18th century summer home on the Amalfi coast, a palazzo perched upon cliffs that rise high above the Mediterranean. The family decided to convert this palazzo into a luxury hotel and in 1951, Hotel Le Sirenuse, named for the Islands of the Sirens was born. Today, the Sersale family has produced a series of fragrances inspired by the beauty of their location, the captivating scents of Italy blended with ancient legends. They turned to...
PITTI
IMMAGINE
FRAGRANZE
By Marika Vecchiattini
From September 9th to 11th, Florence (Italy) will host one of the most important fair-events featuring the world of artistic and niche perfumery: Pitti Immagine Fragranze. This year’s will be the ninth edition of this world-known fair and again, scenic Stazione Leopolda will be the ideal setting for showcasing the most exclusive essences, personal care and wellbeing products and scented accessories.
The 2010 edition saw attendance up by 14% on the previous edition,and final figures showed an increasingly international nature of visitors: “Fragranze”, says Raffaello Napoleone CEO of Pitti Immagine, “Isn’t only the reference commercial platform for international and Italian niche perfumery buyers, but also the ideal context to present the latest ideas and theories...
COMMENTARY
Fragrance Bloggers:
You Have to
Love Them!
By Raymond Matts
Well, no I don't; I will just try to like them. At times I am perplexed by what I read written by bloggers when they critique the work of our industry. I have often thought of critiquing the critiques. Well, not really. I just like the way it sounds and my devious alter ego would enjoy it. I do like a good debate! Although, it is hard to debate when one side of the argument is lacking in substance or knowledge.
Then, there are the commenters adding their penny’s worth of verbiage. I would say two cents’ worth… if in fact, it was! Now, I do appreciate freedom of speech. However, I’m rethinking this after reading comments that lead consumers down a false path of misinformation...
Fragrance Review
Not Your Average Shrinking Violet
or
How I Miss the Big 80s
By
Beth Schreibman Gehring
_____________
I loved the late 70’s and the early 80’s. I partied way too hard, had a very sleek fast car...while sleeping with pretty much anyone I chose. Opium was never far away and I don’t mean the perfume; it was quite the naughty time for women in history. My reading material was anything by Anais Nin, especially her wickedly erotic “Delta of Venus”. I periodically met one of my lovers at his house on a quiet back street sporting a long trench coat wearing nothing underneath but my naked body. Oh my god we had such a good time; the early 80’s were unbelievably decadent.
It was also a fabulous time for fashion because Glam was still all the rage but a punk sensibility was creeping into our world giving a delightfully harder edge to my lips and cheeks. My style icons were Jerry Hall, Patty Hansen...Roxy Music Video inside...
Hélène Rochas
The
Last Farewell
of
Femme Rochas' Diva
By Cristiane Gonçalves
Helene Rochas, muse and former head of Rochas, passed away last week at the age of 84. "It's the end of a myth, of an era," a Rochas spokesperson said of her death.
"She was the muse of one of the great couturiers, the last to remain alive from that era."
This past weekend, the passing of the fashion icon Hélène Rochas was announced. Madame Rochas was the wife of Marcel Rochas, the founder of the maison and one of the most influential fashion designers in the post war times, who designed for great divas of the Classical Hollywood Cinema such as Marlene Dietrich...
With my perfumes you create stories and memories. I reveal and unlock the essence of emotions that populate my dreams and imaginations. A good perfume will surprise before touching the heart deeply, slowly it will give you its soul as it evolves and reveals its final notes. Perfume is like poetry. It must stimulate and create passion instantly. - Mona di Orio
In this debut issue of The Perfume Magazine, we give a warm welcome to Mona di Orio.
CG: Mona, what led you to become a perfumer?
It was definitely my childhood! I have some wonderful olfactory memories; I used to visit my grandparents in the South of France each holiday and their little garden was my aromatic...
Upon my first glance at the Robert Piguet black bottle with it’s fabulous crème label that bears the cipher of society fashion designer Douglas Hannant, I was thoroughly intrigued! Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet is the first original fragrance to be released by the venerable House of Robert Piguet since the 1960’s and since Fracas has been a staple in many a woman’s fragrance wardrobe since the late 40’s (including yours truly!) I figured that it would have to be pretty special to be allowed to bear the branding of that iconic fragrance house.
I wasn’t disappointed, greedily I opened the sample, sprayed a bit on my wrist and fell madly in love! Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet takes my breath away every time, it simply smolders with sexiness yet exudes...
An Interview with:
MONA DI ORIO
By Cristiane Gonçalves
________________
Fragrance Review
Douglas Hannant
de
Robert Piguet
By
Beth Schreibman Gehring
Belle Fleur has some of the most beautiful perfumed products on the planet. You can expect full reviews coming up soon and we are definitely excited about their new perfumes launching next year-Join us next month for reviews of Belle Fleur scented products in our new "Perfumed Products Column" where they will be the first to debut. In this interview, they discuss their new scents and their new scrumtious Rose Candles. For now, it is a great honor to introduce to you; Meredith Waga and Tony Perez of Belle Fleur...
To punctuate this holiday season, the Robert Piguet brand is pleased to present the Limited Edition Fracas de Robert Piguet with Swarovski Elements Crystals. Opulence and splendor spotlight this special edition...
An Interview with:
Meredith Waga
and
Tony Perez
of
Belle Fleur New York
By Raphaella Barkley
_________________
ANNOUNCING:
Limited-Edition
Swarovski
FRACAS
de
Robert Piguet
Just in time for the
HOLIDAYS!
____________
Creed Original Cologne is the latest addition to Creed's Royal Exclusives Collection. Its note pyramid is a modern twist on the classic Eau de Cologne template. Although Creed Original Cologne tips its hat to Victorian England, there is nothing remotely antiquated about it.
Opening notes invigorate with fresh bergamot, lemon and a hint of grapefruit. The citrus top notes are refreshing and prominent yet never overpowering. A few minutes pass and the fragrance segues into a neroli accord that is orange essence sublime. The heart and base accords feel like clean white satin and springtime mornings. Traces of Creed's house ambergris move slow and deep beneath waves of white musc in the base...
The Art Scent Museum in Boulder, Colorado, led by Perfumer and Founder Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, is soon to become a reality!
“This project is something I have dreamt of doing for many years! Itʼs been very close to my heart and continues to be a labor of love”, says Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, founder of the Art Scent Museum in Boulder, Colorado.
As an amateur perfume historian and lover of ancient, vintage and niche perfumery, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has not only been fascinated by the masterpieces of perfume design but has been an avid collector of bottles and packages, artifacts (such as posters, advertising, and catalogues/ pamphlets, cards, etc) and especially the ʻjuiceʼ so as to understand all...
Etat Libre d’Orange’s Archives 69 is a decided departure from the line’s other scents. Warm and animalic, spicy and sweet, milky and somewhat dank, Archives 69 walks a wearably androgynous line and those who love a good incense will fall madly in love with this scent.
Archives 69 (named for the firm’s Paris boutique) was composed
by Christine Nagel and contains the following notes: Tangerine,
Pink Berries CO2, Pepper Leaf, Orchid and Prune JE, Incense,
Camphor, Benzoin, Patchouli and Musk.
My initial reaction to Archives 69 was that it smelled of my father: a man who always walked around with a healthy dose of Old Spice, carrying Juicy Fruit in his pocket. The initial burst of the fragrance is all fruit and spice...
ANNOUNCING:
The Art Scent
MUSEUM
by
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
________________
Fragrance Review
Etat Libre d'Orange
ARCHIVES 69
By Josie Plumey
_______________
Fragrance Review
CREED
Original
Cologne
By Michael Davis
________________
With the release of their latest creation, CREED finally puts their stamp on the hottest raw material to hit the fragrance industry in the last decade. The breathtaking Royal Oud, a shared fragrance, is a sumptuous feast for the nose that is sure to stop a passerby right in their tracks.
Oud, an ingredient from the Indian Agarwood tree is more costly per ounce than palladium, and is featured in Royal Oud in a new and interesting way. This ingredient is a chameleon, of sorts, often times harsh and medicinal, but CREED’s offering smooths the facets of oud into a marvelous, voluptuous concoction. Inspired by the wood, leather, marble, and gold featured in a Persian Palace, Royal Oud has a striking modernity with a clear and distinct nod to centuries...
Fragrance Review
CREED
Royal
Oud
By Mark David Boberick
________________
Haute Claire ("high and bright") - This name suggested by Nathan Branch refers to a famous sword from 12th century French literature. Haute Claire is both crisp and soft, cool and warm. The fresh edgy greenness of galbanum is offset by the creamy floral of ylang ylang edged with honeysuckle. The green and floral notes harmonize in perfect pitch, with neither dominating the other. A warm base of vetiver and vanilla provides a soft finish of sweet grass...
The Perfume Magazine talks with Sabine Poncet, creator of her new perfume, Eau Eternelle.
Sabine, when you decide to create a fragrance for the niche market?
Being able to create my own fragrance and share it with people having the same passion was always what I wanted to do. It was just a matter of time and experience before I decided to get started.
I fell in love with perfumes in my pre-teens, my Aunt had a dresser filled with the most exquisite bottles of perfumes, and I was mesmerized. I collected miniature bottles in my youth, and later on went to Grasse to learn...
Liz Zorn is a Jill of all trades: aside from being one of the most talented independent perfumers in the industry, she is a multi-media artist and a businesswoman. Her Soivohle (standing for Sending Out Inspired Vibrations of Healthy Loving Energy) line includes some of the most masterful fragrances I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing. Zorn’s latest collection, Soivohle Absolute Pour Homme, debuted on Monday the 29th of August. Her next launch will be the re-launch of her Acousticjus line, set for early Fall.
JP: Liz, your fragrances are among the most creative and unusual fragrances I have ever had the pleasure of wearing. When you sit down to work on a fragrance, do you work with a ...
Liz Zorn’s Leather Krem is one of three fragrances she released this summer in her Soivohle Eau de Toilette collection. A professed fan of leather scents and gourmands, I fell head over heels in love with Leather Krem. This perfume is one of my favorite fragrance releases of 2011 thus far.
It is one of the most creative gourmands I have ever had the pleasure of sniffing, and one of the most lovely leather scents I have encountered as well. The combination of both is a unique one; Liz has succeeded in creating a scent that could appeal to both men and women. Leather Krem brilliantly straddles the line between rugged masculinity and sweet femininity.
The initial spray of Leather Krem smells burnt...
An Interview with:
Indie Perfumer
LIZ ZORN
By Josie Plumey
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Fragrance Review
Soivhole
Leather Krem
By Josie Plumey
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There is a pleasurable surprise when you first nuzzle up to its opening accord of the finest, most classic Italian notes of Lemons from Amalfi, Basil, Bergamot and Sicilian Orange coupled with nuances of fresh Mediterranean Herbs that are rendered ultra-feminine with Italian Jasmine and Vanilla from Madagascar on a warm background of Amber Precious Woods from the Orient that makes you feel truly beautiful. This perfume contains no synthetic oils or artificial coloring.
“Juliet” is inspirational, open, feminine, womanly, elegant, beautiful… and unforgettable.
This fragrance is inspired by the precious ingredients I have blended together and used for many years; it is a fil rouge, the thread that runs...
I want to be Sarah Barton King when I grow up. I really have the biggest girl crush on her and even though we have never met I love to think that we would be the best of friends. I have never told many people this, but what I really wanted to be when I grew up was a designer of textiles , giftware, fashion, perfume and dreams. I spent one lifetime in luxury retail and I swore that I’d never go back, but when I see all of the beautiful pictures of Sarah’s original London Boutique, The Pink Room, I’m convinced that I should just do it all over again!
I want to go find her and beg her to just be my muse. Perhaps it’s not too late! When I was first sent the lovely sample of her newest fragrance, appropriately named Darkly Audacious...
JULIET
Perfume For A Cause
With a Review by:
Melissa Groben
Fragrance Review
THE PINK ROOM
Darkly Audacious
By
Beth Schreibman Gehring
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Classic perfumes and their modern descendants: Lanvin Arpège, Must de Cartier, Robert Piguet Bandit and Chanel Égoïste....
Autumn in New York conjures a cornucopia of images: the changing colors of maple leaves, fresh seasonal delicacies at the farmer's market...As the air turns crisper, I like to turn to warmer, more glamorous fragrances...
Francis Kurkdjian “Being a Perfumer”
The world of perfumery is usually so exciting, but occasionally it can become boring due to the high number of new launches that are not very unique or innovative. These days it’s definitely difficult to find anything really new, but just when you are thinking to yourself “it’s not possible, yet another oud?”, you meet a man that believes so fully in the artistic value of perfumery that launches a new brand of fragrance capable of intense delight and full of surprises!
Angelo Orazio Pregoni is that man and his brand O’driù is magnificent. He is a Perfumer capable of touching your heart and soul.
Hanae Mori Parfums presents No. 4, the latest in its well received Eau de Collection series of limited-edition fragrances blended in Paris.
Debuting this month, Breast Cancer Awareness Month, brilliantly pink and floral No. 4 includes a pink ribbon inside its sculptural glass cap.
This fragrance describtion is a "Pink Floral"
VINCE CAMUTO PERFUME
New Fragrance Release
Vince Camuto by Vince Camuto Perfume. Vince Camuto is said to be a chypre-floral perfume with sensual notes. Vince Camuto Perfume opens with rum absolute and osmanthus nectar along with heart floral notes of Bulgarian rose, jasmine and leather notes. The sensual and sweet base of the fragrance is made of vanilla, patchouli, Brazilian amber and musky notes.
We were unable to review in time for this issue but look for our fragrance profile next issue! -RB
With A Delightful Video w/Music
Roxana Villa’s creativity shines through her line of botanical fragrances, Illuminated Perfume. An illustrator and certified aromatherapist, she strives to create fragrances that both paint a picture for their wearers and uplift their wearers.
I was first introduced to Roxana with the arrival of her fragrance, To Bee.
I was intrigued by the concept of a perfume created to reflect the smell and energy of a buzzing bee hive...
The market for Niche and Indie fragrances has never been bigger than it is right now. Every so often, an Independent perfumer comes along with an impeccably tailored line that delivers on all fronts - exquisite fragrance, exceptional packaging, and an overwhelming attention to detail.
This Fall, with the launch of her fragrance line, 40notes, Miriam Vareldzis proves to us that, indeed, "Love is in the details."
I recently sat down with my friend Miriam for this exclusive Interview, her first with The Perfume Magazine...
Aftelier Perfumes
launches
HAUTE CLAIRE
a New Fragrance by Mandy Aftel
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An Interview With:
SABINE PONCET
of
Eau Eternelle
By Raphaella Barkley
Click on photo above to view
The San Francisco Beat
by Raphaella Barkley.
Then click on the Cover at
Beauty Fashion Magazine
to expand and you can view the whole issue of Beauty Fashion.
The San Francisco Beat is on Pages 44 and continued
on Page 54.
Raphaella Barkley interviewed for
INSTYLE MAGAZINE!
Click on images
below to view
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Familiarizing myself with Andy Tauer and his fragrances has been a real joy. Andy is a man who values creativity, independence, and beautiful things. I never understood why the Swiss perfumer was so admired until I first smelled his perfumes.
Tauer Perfumes can be summed up perfectly by Andy himself, whose blog I read religiously and from where this quote was obtained: “Let me be modest: At least I launch fragrances that are interesting.” ....
With Special Photographs from
the Event...
I took a seat to follow Francis Kurkdjian lecture on “Being a Perfumer”. He shared his thoughts and visions about his profession and explained something of the perfumed installation, “La Lumiere des Innocents”(The light of the Innocents), on display that evening at the “Istituto degli Innocenti”, a catholic institution created 600 years ago in Florence to help parentless children to survive and achieve an education....presentations by Bertrand Duchaufour,Grossmith London, Brecourt...
