THEDEBUTISSUE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
IN THIS ISSUE
September 10, 2011
The Perfume Magazine is an online fragrance magazine celebrating the art of fragrance offering fragrance reviews, articles,
press releases, interviews and events. The Magazine is a collaboration of fragrance lovers contributing to each issue and would not be possible otherwise.
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REACHING HEAVEN
An Interview With:
BERTRAND
DUCHAUFOUR
By Marlene Goldsmith
Bertrand Duchaufour is a perfumer of astonishing versatility and originality. He has been christened the “new Pope of niche fragrances,” a “master of the modernist style (Jardin du Poete),” as well as an artist who renders “ancient, classical beauty new (Paestum Rose).” His perfumes are often referred to as perfect works of art, and he created two of the greatest scents of our time, Timbuktu and Dzongkha. Duchaufour stands as one of the world’s finest contemporary perfumers.
Starting out as a trainee at the Lautier Florasynth group in Grasse and working with Florasynth Paris, he moved on to affiliations with such companies as Créations Aromatiques, Comme de Garçon Kyoto, Acqua di Parma, Eau d’Italie, L’Artisan Parfumeur, and Penhaligons...
The
Art and Passion
of
JOHN
BAILEY
An Interview
By Veronica Kavanagh
Amidst the flames and sparks of Bonfire Night, on November 5, 1981, John Bailey decided to become the master of his own destiny and has never looked back. Fueled by determination, talent and a passion for perfume, he created The Perfumers Guild, an ultra niche perfumery of limited edition and bespoke fragrances based on the idea of quality, luxury and dedication to the art of fine perfumery.
Starting his business long before the current proliferation of niche perfume houses, John’s roots in the fragrance and flavor world run deep, stretching from his apprenticeship with a venerable manufacturing chemist in the U.K. to the modern day perfume dynasties in Grasse, France. A passionate rose lover and member of the Royal National Rose Society, John built his business by exhibiting his hand-blended perfumes...
THE NOIR FLORAL
Abstract Trends:
2011 - 2012
By Sali Oguri
When an obscure indie brand called Odin New York launched their fragrances here in New York City, the word never quite reached the streets but stayed within the parameters of our tiny region of the perfumed blogosphere. Yet, who knew one of their offerings, Petrana 04 (black Jordanian iris), would become a finalist at the prestigious FiFi Awards, in one of the most relevant categories to the flavor and fragrance industry: Perfume Extraordinaire, a most coveted "jus" exemplifying true refinement based on a blindtest? Redolent of silent films, face powder and peaches-and-cream, Petrana is a unisex offering timewarping back to more traditionally *feminine fare (*by which I mean "maternalistic"), a classic Madonna fragrance featuring peachy, wooded rose, musk and lily a la Trésor,
Nahéma, Tocade...
ANNOUNCING:
The
Perfume
Magazine
FORUMS
By Mark David Boberick
You are cordially invited to join a brand new
Virtual Fragrance Community!
The Perfume Magazine FORUMS is our newest and most exciting project! Registered members have the opportunity to interact with other fragrance lovers to discuss the world of Perfume and meet new friends along the way.
The FORUMS will also host our upcoming Contests, debuting in the October Issue. Only registered Forum members will be eligible to participate in what is sure to become a groundbreaking Giveaway series - so make sure you sign up TODAY!!
Fragrance Review
Eau d'Italie
Jardin du Poete
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
Every now and then you are blessed with the gift of a perfume that is so truly wonderful that you feel that you could never live without it. For me, Eau d Italie’s luscious Jardin du Poete or The Poets Garden is that precious scent touching a very deep nerve and igniting my passions and my way too vivid imagination!
Jardin du Poete is a 2011 release by Eau d Italie that has been created for us by the absolutely brilliant Bertrand Duchaufour; a perfume so sumptuous, fresh and imaginative that from the moment I opened the bottle I had the feeling that I had been stolen from my life and dropped into the middle of a feisty historical romance.
I know that you know the type; a gorgeous and gossamer tale that is spun in the 17th century...
PITTI
IMMAGINE
FRAGRANZE
By Marika Vecchiattini
From September 9th to 11th, Florence (Italy) will host one of the most important fair-events featuring the world of artistic and niche perfumery: Pitti Immagine Fragranze. This year’s will be the ninth edition of this world-known fair and again, scenic Stazione Leopolda will be the ideal setting for showcasing the most exclusive essences, personal care and wellbeing products and scented accessories.
The 2010 edition saw attendance up by 14% on the previous edition,and final figures showed an increasingly international nature of visitors: “Fragranze”, says Raffaello Napoleone CEO of Pitti Immagine, “Isn’t only the reference commercial platform for international and Italian niche perfumery buyers, but also the ideal context to present the latest ideas and theories...
An Interview With:
Marina Sersale
and
Sebastian Alvarez
of
Eau d'Italie
Eau d'Italie sits high above the Mediterranean on one of the most gorgeous and coveted locations on the Amalfi Coast. According to Sirenuse legend, the Sirens' songs were compelled by a powerfully seductive scent - a cocktail of magnolia, tuberose, honey and musk. After the end of the Second World War, the noble Neapolitan Sersale family reunited at their 18th century summer home on the Amalfi coast, a palazzo perched upon cliffs that rise high above the Mediterranean. The family decided to convert this palazzo into a luxury hotel and in 1951, Hotel Le Sirenuse, named for the Islands of the Sirens was born. Today, the Sersale family has produced a series of fragrances inspired by the beauty of their location, the captivating scents of Italy blended with ancient legends. They turned to...
COMMENTARY
Fragrance Bloggers:
You Have to
Love Them!
By Raymond Matts
Well, no I don't; I will just try to like them. At times I am perplexed by what I read written by bloggers when they critique the work of our industry. I have often thought of critiquing the critiques. Well, not really. I just like the way it sounds and my devious alter ego would enjoy it. I do like a good debate! Although, it is hard to debate when one side of the argument is lacking in substance or knowledge.
Then, there are the commenters adding their penny’s worth of verbiage. I would say two cents’ worth… if in fact, it was! Now, I do appreciate freedom of speech. However, I’m rethinking this after reading comments that lead consumers down a false path of misinformation...
Fragrance Review
Not Your Average Shrinking Violet
or
How I Miss the Big 80s
By
Beth Schreibman Gehring
_____________
I loved the late 70’s and the early 80’s. I partied way too hard, had a very sleek fast car...while sleeping with pretty much anyone I chose. Opium was never far away and I don’t mean the perfume; it was quite the naughty time for women in history. My reading material was anything by Anais Nin, especially her wickedly erotic “Delta of Venus”. I periodically met one of my lovers at his house on a quiet back street sporting a long trench coat wearing nothing underneath but my naked body. Oh my god we had such a good time; the early 80’s were unbelievably decadent.
It was also a fabulous time for fashion because Glam was still all the rage but a punk sensibility was creeping into our world giving a delightfully harder edge to my lips and cheeks. My style icons were Jerry Hall, Patty Hansen...Roxy Music Video inside...
Hélène Rochas
The
Last Farewell
of
Femme Rochas' Diva
By Cristiane Gonçalves
Helene Rochas, muse and former head of Rochas, passed away last week at the age of 84. "It's the end of a myth, of an era," a Rochas spokesperson said of her death.
"She was the muse of one of the great couturiers, the last to remain alive from that era."
This past weekend, the passing of the fashion icon Hélène Rochas was announced. Madame Rochas was the wife of Marcel Rochas, the founder of the maison and one of the most influential fashion designers in the post war times, who designed for great divas of the Classical Hollywood Cinema such as Marlene Dietrich...
With my perfumes you create stories and memories. I reveal and unlock the essence of emotions that populate my dreams and imaginations. A good perfume will surprise before touching the heart deeply, slowly it will give you its soul as it evolves and reveals its final notes. Perfume is like poetry. It must stimulate and create passion instantly. - Mona di Orio
In this debut issue of The Perfume Magazine, we give a warm welcome to Mona di Orio.
CG: Mona, what led you to become a perfumer?
It was definitely my childhood! I have some wonderful olfactory memories; I used to visit my grandparents in the South of France each holiday and their little garden was my aromatic...
Upon my first glance at the Robert Piguet black bottle with it’s fabulous crème label that bears the cipher of society fashion designer Douglas Hannant, I was thoroughly intrigued! Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet is the first original fragrance to be released by the venerable House of Robert Piguet since the 1960’s and since Fracas has been a staple in many a woman’s fragrance wardrobe since the late 40’s (including yours truly!) I figured that it would have to be pretty special to be allowed to bear the branding of that iconic fragrance house.
I wasn’t disappointed, greedily I opened the sample, sprayed a bit on my wrist and fell madly in love! Douglas Hannant de Robert Piguet takes my breath away every time, it simply smolders with sexiness yet exudes...
An Interview with:
MONA DI ORIO
By Cristiane Gonçalves
________________
Fragrance Review
Douglas Hannant
de
Robert Piguet
By
Beth Schreibman Gehring
Belle Fleur has some of the most beautiful perfumed products on the planet. You can expect full reviews coming up soon and we are definitely excited about their new perfumes launching next year-Join us next month for reviews of Belle Fleur scented products in our new "Perfumed Products Column" where they will be the first to debut. In this interview, they discuss their new scents and their new scrumtious Rose Candles. For now, it is a great honor to introduce to you; Meredith Waga and Tony Perez of Belle Fleur...
To punctuate this holiday season, the Robert Piguet brand is pleased to present the Limited Edition Fracas de Robert Piguet with Swarovski Elements Crystals. Opulence and splendor spotlight this special edition...
An Interview with:
Meredith Waga
and
Tony Perez
of
Belle Fleur New York
By Raphaella Barkley
_________________
ANNOUNCING:
Limited-Edition
Swarovski
FRACAS
de
Robert Piguet
Just in time for the
HOLIDAYS!
____________
Creed Original Cologne is the latest addition to Creed's Royal Exclusives Collection. Its note pyramid is a modern twist on the classic Eau de Cologne template. Although Creed Original Cologne tips its hat to Victorian England, there is nothing remotely antiquated about it.
Opening notes invigorate with fresh bergamot, lemon and a hint of grapefruit. The citrus top notes are refreshing and prominent yet never overpowering. A few minutes pass and the fragrance segues into a neroli accord that is orange essence sublime. The heart and base accords feel like clean white satin and springtime mornings. Traces of Creed's house ambergris move slow and deep beneath waves of white musc in the base...
The Art Scent Museum in Boulder, Colorado, led by Perfumer and Founder Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, is soon to become a reality!
“This project is something I have dreamt of doing for many years! Itʼs been very close to my heart and continues to be a labor of love”, says Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, founder of the Art Scent Museum in Boulder, Colorado.
As an amateur perfume historian and lover of ancient, vintage and niche perfumery, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has not only been fascinated by the masterpieces of perfume design but has been an avid collector of bottles and packages, artifacts (such as posters, advertising, and catalogues/ pamphlets, cards, etc) and especially the ʻjuiceʼ so as to understand all...
Etat Libre d’Orange’s Archives 69 is a decided departure from the line’s other scents. Warm and animalic, spicy and sweet, milky and somewhat dank, Archives 69 walks a wearably androgynous line and those who love a good incense will fall madly in love with this scent.
Archives 69 (named for the firm’s Paris boutique) was composed
by Christine Nagel and contains the following notes: Tangerine,
Pink Berries CO2, Pepper Leaf, Orchid and Prune JE, Incense,
Camphor, Benzoin, Patchouli and Musk.
My initial reaction to Archives 69 was that it smelled of my father: a man who always walked around with a healthy dose of Old Spice, carrying Juicy Fruit in his pocket. The initial burst of the fragrance is all fruit and spice...
ANNOUNCING:
The Art Scent
MUSEUM
by
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz
________________
Fragrance Review
Etat Libre d'Orange
ARCHIVES 69
By Josie Plumey
_______________
Fragrance Review
CREED
Original
Cologne
By Michael Davis
________________
With the release of their latest creation, CREED finally puts their stamp on the hottest raw material to hit the fragrance industry in the last decade. The breathtaking Royal Oud, a shared fragrance, is a sumptuous feast for the nose that is sure to stop a passerby right in their tracks.
Oud, an ingredient from the Indian Agarwood tree is more costly per ounce than palladium, and is featured in Royal Oud in a new and interesting way. This ingredient is a chameleon, of sorts, often times harsh and medicinal, but CREED’s offering smooths the facets of oud into a marvelous, voluptuous concoction. Inspired by the wood, leather, marble, and gold featured in a Persian Palace, Royal Oud has a striking modernity with a clear and distinct nod to centuries...
Fragrance Review
CREED
Royal
Oud
By Mark David Boberick
________________
Haute Claire ("high and bright") - This name suggested by Nathan Branch refers to a famous sword from 12th century French literature. Haute Claire is both crisp and soft, cool and warm. The fresh edgy greenness of galbanum is offset by the creamy floral of ylang ylang edged with honeysuckle. The green and floral notes harmonize in perfect pitch, with neither dominating the other. A warm base of vetiver and vanilla provides a soft finish of sweet grass...
The Perfume Magazine talks with Sabine Poncet, creator of her new perfume, Eau Eternelle.
Sabine, when you decide to create a fragrance for the niche market?
Being able to create my own fragrance and share it with people having the same passion was always what I wanted to do. It was just a matter of time and experience before I decided to get started.
I fell in love with perfumes in my pre-teens, my Aunt had a dresser filled with the most exquisite bottles of perfumes, and I was mesmerized. I collected miniature bottles in my youth, and later on went to Grasse to learn...
Aftelier Perfumes
launches
HAUTE CLAIRE
a New Fragrance by Mandy Aftel
________________
An Interview With:
SABINE PONCET
of
Eau Eternelle
By Raphaella Barkley
Liz Zorn is a Jill of all trades: aside from being one of the most talented independent perfumers in the industry, she is a multi-media artist and a businesswoman. Her Soivohle (standing for Sending Out Inspired Vibrations of Healthy Loving Energy) line includes some of the most masterful fragrances I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing. Zorn’s latest collection, Soivohle Absolute Pour Homme, debuted on Monday the 29th of August. Her next launch will be the re-launch of her Acousticjus line, set for early Fall.
JP: Liz, your fragrances are among the most creative and unusual fragrances I have ever had the pleasure of wearing. When you sit down to work on a fragrance, do you work with a ...
Liz Zorn’s Leather Krem is one of three fragrances she released this summer in her Soivohle Eau de Toilette collection. A professed fan of leather scents and gourmands, I fell head over heels in love with Leather Krem. This perfume is one of my favorite fragrance releases of 2011 thus far.
It is one of the most creative gourmands I have ever had the pleasure of sniffing, and one of the most lovely leather scents I have encountered as well. The combination of both is a unique one; Liz has succeeded in creating a scent that could appeal to both men and women. Leather Krem brilliantly straddles the line between rugged masculinity and sweet femininity.
The initial spray of Leather Krem smells burnt...
An Interview with:
Indie Perfumer
LIZ ZORN
By Josie Plumey
________________
Fragrance Review
Soivhole
Leather Krem
By Josie Plumey
______________
There is a pleasurable surprise when you first nuzzle up to its opening accord of the finest, most classic Italian notes of Lemons from Amalfi, Basil, Bergamot and Sicilian Orange coupled with nuances of fresh Mediterranean Herbs that are rendered ultra-feminine with Italian Jasmine and Vanilla from Madagascar on a warm background of Amber Precious Woods from the Orient that makes you feel truly beautiful. This perfume contains no synthetic oils or artificial coloring.
“Juliet” is inspirational, open, feminine, womanly, elegant, beautiful… and unforgettable.
This fragrance is inspired by the precious ingredients I have blended together and used for many years; it is a fil rouge, the thread that runs...
I want to be Sarah Barton King when I grow up. I really have the biggest girl crush on her and even though we have never met I love to think that we would be the best of friends. I have never told many people this, but what I really wanted to be when I grew up was a designer of textiles , giftware, fashion, perfume and dreams. I spent one lifetime in luxury retail and I swore that I’d never go back, but when I see all of the beautiful pictures of Sarah’s original London Boutique, The Pink Room, I’m convinced that I should just do it all over again!
I want to go find her and beg her to just be my muse. Perhaps it’s not too late! When I was first sent the lovely sample of her newest fragrance, appropriately named Darkly Audacious...
JULIET
Perfume For A Cause
With a Review by:
Melissa Groben
Fragrance Review
THE PINK ROOM
Darkly Audacious
By
Beth Schreibman Gehring
_________________
JOIN US OCTOBER 1, 2011 FOR:
THE FALL ISSUE
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Welcome to the debut issue of The Perfume Magazine. Our Managing Editor Mark David Boberick and I are proud to present this new magazine, devoted entirely to the world of perfume. Fragrance inspires us, as you’ll see in the pages that follow. We’ll cover all of the many and varied types of perfume, including Mass, Masstige, Prestige, Luxe, Men's, Celebrity, Niche, Classics and Vintage. Through the eyes of our magazine’s contributors and their passion, creativity and love of fragrance, we will present the world of perfume in its most tantalizing form. The focus of The Perfume Magazine is to celebrate, educate and illuminate the many facets of fragrances and the fragrance industry.
Please feel free to sign our guest book by clicking on the link under the banner and show us the love. Tell your friends about The Perfume Magazine and, of course, you’re welcome to subscribe here for free. See our press release describing more of the details you’ll find in the magazine. Please look for future issues of The Perfume Magazine to follow, including special-theme issues. Don’t miss our upcoming October issue, in which we kick-off one of the biggest perfume give-a-way drawings ever. To enter any of the drawings, you must become a registered member of The Perfume Magazine Forum. We also invite you to join us on Facebook and Twitter to receive updates in the quickest form.
Thank you for reading and once again - Welcome to The Perfume Magazine!
UPDATE: To celebrate the grand opening of The Perfume Magazine, we are delighted to offer our readers a 40% discount on the book,
Roja Dove: The Essence of Perfume.
Raphaella Barkley / Editor-In-Chief
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To celebrate the grand opening of
The Perfume Magazine, we are delighted to offer our readers a 40% discount on the book, Roja Dove: The Essence of Perfume.
“Fragrance fans will find heaven within the pages of this beautifully illustrated book….
Delicious.” Grazia
The Essence of Perfume is the first book by Roja Dove, and is as captivating as it is informative. Beginning with a comprehensive discussion of the sense of smell and the materials of the master perfumer, the book moves on to celebrate the great classics, the makers who brought them to life and the designers who gave them shape. In an age where the methods and motivations of the original perfumers are all but forgotten, Roja Dove reveals the gripping story of scent with all the passion and devotion of a true artist.
With beautiful photographs from unique and iconic perfume bottles, vintage and modern day advertisements, and featuring big name houses and characters, The Essence of Perfume is an ideal gift for anyone with an interest in beauty, fashion, perfume and design.
The retail price of the book is $29.95 – therefore with the 40% discount the price of the book will be $17.97 plus postage. For UK and Europe orders, we will place the order with our UK distributors. The price of the book is £19.95 therefore with the discount the price will be £11.97 plus postage.
To order at the discounted price, simply email Jessica at jess@blackdogonline.com with their delivery address and quoting
‘The Perfume Magazine Offer’ as the subject heading.
Special offer from
The Perfume Magazine.
40% discount on the book, Roja Dove: The Essence of Perfume.
