THEESXENCEISSUE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
April 24, 2012
Having recently returned from Esxence, The Scent of Excellence 2012 in Milan Italy, in which The Perfume Magazine had the honor of being a Web Media Partner, I still cannot believe we were a part of one of Italy’s premiere niche artistic perfume events. Esxence is an international event that promotes the art of olfactory language and the value and beauty of Artistic Perfumery. Top European and American niche and luxury brands from around the world were featured in a four day extravaganza that was filled to the brim with fragrances, and scent-themed workshops and discussions. On display was a glittering and fragrant array of new products from large, small niche and luxury lines. The positive response was overwhelming, especially considering the state of today’s worldwide economy. Esxence and ICE (the producer of the event) displayed impeccable and passionate professionalism throughout the entire four days. A first class event, international glitterati and guests were filled with excitement at the event. This was the biggest and most successful Esxence event to date with many new vendors displaying their latest products to a sold-out venue. I was excited to discover that many new niche lines from Europe were making their way to America for distribution. Esxence offered a significant and magical mix of perfumers, industry professionals, perfume lovers, buyers and everyone who is passionately involved in perfume, confirming that Esxence is a must attend event and that the niche fragrance market is alive and well. I walked away fervently wishing Esxence would come to America.
This is The Perfume Magazine's biggest issue to date and is dedicated to Esxence and everything Italian along with many other wonderful and fascinating articles of interest. I also returned from Milan to find that I was recently featured in an interview by the Fragrance Foundation titled “Up Close and Personal with Raphaella Barkley". This was a huge honor for us at The Perfume Magazine. Over the next few months we will be featuring articles and highlighting the perfume houses that were represented in Milan. I would like to thank everyone at Esxence, especially the extraordinary Silvio Levi, the Esxence and ICE Team who made this trip possible for us. There are many people behind the scenes at Esxence that I did not have the opportunity to meet and I want to thank them as well. A huge thank you to our contributors, whom this Magazine would not be possible! You are THE BEST!
We welcome our new advertisers Nicolas Parfums Paris and The Perfume Shoppe. We also give a warm welcome to Lynn Morgan, a professional journalist. Please enjoy our many wonderful articles and news in this issue of The Perfume Magazine! Festa Italiana!
RAPHAELLA BARKLEY | Editor In Chief 
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An Inspired Collaboration
Neela Vermeire and Bertrand Duchaufour
by Mark David Boberick, Managing Editor
What happens when a serious and passionate fragrance lover decides to launch her own line of fine fragrances? She turns to Master Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour and launches an exceptional trilogy of perfumes celebrating her homeland: India. The result is Neela Vermeire Creations, 2012’s most exciting niche fragrance collection.
Neela Vermeire was born in Calcutta (now Kolkata), the capital of the Indian state of West Bengal. As a young child coming of age in the Indian tropics, Vermeire was met with a wide variety of smells from a very young age. “In India, you are always assaulted with various smells – good, bad, and ugly. I spent my summers at my grandparents’ country home which was surrounded by many tropical flowers and fruits. I have great memories involving scent – time spent with my family during various ceremonies, celebrations and feasts, holidays by the sea all over India and the Himalayan Mountains. Sandalwood paste used as a face mask while growing up. Tea gardens in Darjeeing and Munnar, visits to other cities, life in Calcutta - pocketfuls of beautiful smells,” says Vermeire. . .
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed herein are solely those of the author and/or guest contributors and do not necessarily state or reflect those of The Perfume Magazine LLC, Raphaella Brescia Barkley or Mark David Boberick.
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The Perfume Magazine.com is solely owned and operated by Raphaella Barkley Raphaella Barkley; Editor, Founder and Owner of The Perfume Magazine LLC.
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© Copyright. 2012. All Rights Reserved. The Perfume Magazine LLC 2012
MISSED THE PREVIOUS ISSUES OF THE PERFUME MAGAZINE?
Catch up on what you missed, right here!
THE SPRING ISSUE - March 25, 2012
THE WINTER ISSUE Part Two - January 23, 2012
THE WINTER ISSUE Part One - December 30, 2011
THE HOLIDAY ISSUE - December 1, 2011
THE MENS ISSUE- November 1, 2011
THE FALL ISSUE- October 1, 2011
THE DEBUT ISSUE - September 10, 2011
(formerly Sniffapalooza Magazine)
Over 1000 Articles and Interviews - an ENORMOUS body of work for endless hours of reading
pleasure including the incredible interview with International Fragrance Expert Michael Edwards!
So put your kettle on, change into your pajamas, turn your cell phone off and dive right in!
THE FRAGRANCE
FOUNDATION
INTERVIEW:
"Up Close And Personal with
The Perfume Magazine’s
Raphaella Barkley"
The Joy of Smelling Italian
Maria Candida Gentile
By Marika Vecchiattini
Profile and Mini-Interview
India and the Modern Man
by Clayton Ilolahia
Fall into Spring with this trio of candles that perfectly complement your home with their aromas that reawaken the senses after a few months of hibernation.
Featuring
CAMBRIDGE
Astier de Villatte
MOSAMBI BLOSSOM
Charlie Gardener Collection
VETIVER
elizabeth W
Spring Candle Round-Up
by Mark David Boberick
Artists have often looked to India for inspiration in their work. The colours, tastes and sounds of India have provided an amazing resource of ideas for designers and creators within the world of fashion and beauty. Recently, Karl Lagerfeld referenced India with his acclaimed Metier d’Art collection for Chanel and 19th century French jeweller Louis Boucheron was keenly inspired by a garden he visited in the city of Jaipur. When the jeweller began offering perfume, Boucheron Jaipur Pour Homme was eventually created in 1997. . .
Perspective:
Message in
a Bottle
Men's cologne ads have always been about sex on some level.
By Robert Klara
The largest advertising journal in the USA interviewed Marian Bendeth on her take on Men's fragrance advertising.
Nobile 1942
La danza delle Libellule
By Marika Vecchiattini
Massimo and Stefania Nobile, the couple owning Nobile 1942, chose Esxence exhibition, in Milan, to launch the new scent from their “Nobile1942” line: “La Danza delle Libellule/A Dance of Dragonflies”.
Maria Candida Gentile
Exclusive Fragrances:
Luberon
By Ermano Picco
A Taste of Esxence:
Parfums de Marly
by Raphaella Barkley
INSIDE: We are not compromising on the quality of the raw material investing a lot in the fragrances and working with . . .
A Taste of Esxence:
Prudence Paris
By Raphaella Barkley
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. Prudence Paris is owned and operated by Prudence Kigour and is a French niche perfumery.
I met Prudence in Milan and she shared with me her beautiful French Perfumes. She has a full line that includes 12 scents...
A Taste of Esxence:
Fleur de Café
By Raphaella Barkley
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. Join us for a quick peek inside Esxence and some of the perfume companies that were represented in Milan Italy. We spoke with Charlotte Robert of Fleur de Café.
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. We spoke with Nicolas Danila of Parfums Nicolas Danila Paris. An heiress of the Traditional French Perfumery...
Nicolas Danila with Pierre Dinard
A Taste of Esxence:
Parfums Nicolas Danila
By Raphaella Barkley
Italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile has just launched her new line of scents, called “the Exclusives”, which will soon join her regular offer in stores. The Exclusives (“Luberon", “Lady Day”, “Burlesque” and “Gentile”) are like scented polaroids, portaying places and people she feels a special connection to. “In the passion with which I approach the composition process! I'm Italian to the marrow: I'm a very instinctive and passionate person. And then, I love raw materials growing here. . .
The Perfume Magazine meets The Perfume Lover
An Interview with
Author Denyse Beaulieu
by Mark David Boberick
The world of fragrance, while seemingly vast, is in fact - not very large at all. And while there may be over 1200 new fragrances released in a calendar year, very few literary tomes dealing with the subject are published. So when a new volume on perfume launches, every fragrance fan around the globe pays attention. I recently sat down with Denyse Beaulieu at the Palazzo la Permanente in Milan, Italy, where Esxence was in full-swing, to discuss her new book, The Perfume Lover - this spring's must-read perfume book . . .
THE TAILORED SCENT
Italian Fragrances for the Modern Man
by Clayton Ilolahia
XERJOFF 1861
A Scent for Italy
By Mark David Boberick
THE SPRING ISSUE - MARCH 25, 2012
"Fleur de Café is the first – and the only – perfume to use the essence of the coffee flower. That fragrance is so rich and powerful that I could not resist creating a perfume with it."
Fragrant Fiction: M. J. Rose
The Book of Lost Fragrances
By Lynn Morgan
Join us as The Perfume Magazine's new journalist, Lynn Morgan from People Magazine, In Style Magazine Antiques & Fine Art, LUXE, The Robb Report and the Los Angeles Times, goes in-depth and talks with international author M.J. Rose about her latest book and her love of perfume...During the course of her research, perfume became a haunting subtext that eventually moved to the forefront.
Interview with Frederick Bouchardy of Joya; Creator of “Ames Soeurs”
By Lynn Morgan
How did Âmes Soeurs come about?
We selected scents that had a religious or ritualistic flavor, and then we had our way with them! The top notes are tamarind, Cyprus and grapefruit; the middle is rose bulgur, ginger and orange blossom, and the dry-down is cedar wood, incense, amber and sweet musk, so the overall effect is orange blossoms, wrapped in smoke, incense and musk...
“In perfumes,
we seek our dreams.”
– M.J. Rose
Chandler Burr Guest Speaker
Save The Dates for Fragranze Pitti Immagine and The Art of Scent in New York City!
Chandler Burr; Special Guest at Fragranze Pitti 2012!
- Fragranze Pitti Immagine, September 14-16, 2012
- "The Art of Scent" and Gala Scent Dinner Opening Nov 12 and 13, 2012
Mr. Burr will be doing three things at the special event: he will be conducting an open talk to everyone at Fragranze, will be hosting a very special Pitti Fragranze “Scent Dinner, which he is very well known for, and finally, he will be creating a large exhibition in the Stazione Leopolda. Mr. Burr is known for his enthralling, educational and successful guest speaking forums. He will prove to be a huge asset at the event and The Perfume Magazine hopes to see Chandler Burr in Florence Italy! In other news....Chandler Burr, the Curator of Olfactory Arts at the Museum of Art and Design in New York City has announced the dates for “The Art of Scent”; November 13, 2012 through January 13, 2013. “The Art of Scent” at The Museum of Arts and Design Department of Olfactory Art will only be open for a limited showing so if you plan on attending, please note that the event closes on January 13th 2013, so you only have a two month window! The Museum of Arts and Design’s Visionaries! 2012 Scent Gala Monday, November 12th, Mandarin Oriental, New York City.
The Italian Spirit at Esxence 2012 Milan
by Giovanni Sammarco
L'italianità di una fiera. Cos'è l'italianità e cosa può essere l'italianità nel profumo?
In Italian and English
BOOK GIVEAWAY
The Perfume Lover
by Denyse Beaulieu
What if the most beautiful night in your life inspired a fragrance? The Perfume Lover is an unprecedented account of the creative process that goes into composing a fragrance, and a uniquely candid insider's view into the world and history of fragrance. Your world will never smell the same.
Robert Piguet Parfums Unveils “Nouvelle Collection de Robert Piguet”
The Perfume Magazine was fortunate enough to sample this collection in Milan!
Look for full coverage in our next issue!
puredistance: master perfumes
by Mark David Boberick
She Comes In Colors, Everywhere
Perfumes To Fall Madly In Love With This Spring
by
Beth Schreibman Gehring
I think that it was Robin Williams who said “Spring is Natures way of saying Let’s Party!” These days I couldn’t agree more. It’s been unusually warm here in Cleveland, 86 degrees yesterday and it would seem that March has become the new May! Daffodils and forsythia are blooming everywhere, my crabapple trees are filled to bursting with creamy pink and white buds and every rose bush in my yard is filled with beautiful green leaves and the promise of many a bloom. It’s usually still snowing here this time of year so all fears about climate change aside I’ll take it! Here in Ohio we’re definitely. . .
Does the idea of exclusivity rest solely in availability and distribution? Can the concept for an exclusive fragrance line surpass branding and permeate into the fragrances themselves? Jan Ewoud Vos, founder of Puredistance, has created a perfume line that turns a branding idea into a rock-solid concept that expertly lends itself to every aspect of the company – from packaging and presentation to the trio of exquisite perfume extracts.
Based in the Netherlands, Jan Ewoud Vos’ inspired vision was carried out by Master Perfumer Annie Buzantian in New York and Professeur de Parfum Roja Dove in London . . .
The Proliferation of Perfume Communication
A Commentary by Marian Bendeth, Global Fragrance Expert
I recently bumped into an old High School chum, we were best friends back in the day and had much to catch up on. As we giggled our way down memory lane, she paused for a second and then said "You always smelled like an old lady, I don't mean a Senior but like a grown woman. I always smelled of strawberries and girly stuff," she said, "but you Marian, were grown beyond your years".
As daft as that sounded, I could understand what she was saying. My childhood years were spent wearing grown-up fragrances going back to the age of three. It was hard
discussing my obsession with other kids. They didn't understand my passion for something so adult. There were no computers, cell phones with apps, tweets, zines and blogs to reference. Only my local library where I would devour foreign magazines in languages that made no sense but oh, those ads of the latest scents were always exhilarating to pore over. I would also order scarce books on perfumes which I would voraciously read cover-to-cover and hand-copy...
A Taste of Esxence;
Neela Vermeire Créations
By Raphaella Barkley
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence, how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. We spoke with Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Créations, our Spring Cover Story.
"We created the India trio based on my concept and intense research into history of India combined with many olfactory memories. Bertrand could choose the quality of ingredients; three luminous perfumes as a tribute to three eras in India . . ."
Book Giveaway and Draw Here! Sign the Guest Book and tell us why you want this book OR what you enjoyed about the interview with Denyse Beaulieu featured above!
Winner will be chosen by random drawing. DEADLINE: May 30, 2012.
Special Thanks to Harper Collins
The Fragrance Foundation Announces The 2012
Top Ten FiFi® Finalists
The Fragrance Foundation is pleased to share the 2012 Top Ten FiFi® Finalists.
GLEE Star, Jane Lynch, Hosts the 40th Anniversary FiFi® Awards on May 21, 2012 in NYC.
The Fragrance Foundation is positively ‘gleeful’ and honored to announce that Emmy and Golden Globe Winner, star of the mega-hit series Glee, the incomparable Jane Lynch will host this year’s 40th Anniversary FiFi Awards at the prestigious Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center on May 21st....
Images from
MILAN
PARFUMS
NICOLAS DANILA PARIS
Bottles by Pierre Dinard
Robert Piquet President Joe Garces at Esxence Milan!
Special thanks to Extrait, Joe Garces and Silvio Levi.
Robert Piguet Parfums is pleased to unveil “Nouvelle Collection de Robert Piguet,” a range of ultra-luxe distinctive scents. This special collection was created by Master Perfumer Aurelien Guichard of Givaudan Paris. Experience the lure of these cutting-edge fragrances designed to complement the existing range of classic perfumes. This special collection includes Bois Noir, OUD, Casbah, Notes and Mademoiselle Piguet de Robert Piguet.
Coming next issue! Exclusive interviews with President Joe Garces and Perfumer Aurelien Guichard, PLUS Profiles of the entire Nouvelle Collection
Mark Twain once said, “Clothes make the man.” At face value, this could seem like a superficial comment – as we all know it’s what’s inside that counts… right? However, many theorists would agree with Mark Twain’s sentiments that first impressions are created within seconds of meeting someone. These same theorists would also agree that more than 50 percent of communication occurs non-verbally. Given this, you begin to see the way we communicate ourselves to others, simply through the way we dress. . .
NEWS
NEWS
AMERINDIAN
GARDENS
Parfums Nicolas Danila
By Mark David Boberick
The body of my work in life focuses on creating training experiences around scents via the cross-sensory experience, also called synesthesia. By providing a reference to it, the sensory stimuli from our other senses help us to detect and study the scent message. This past March at Esxence, I was fortunate enough to come across several references to this approach that take the synesthetic dialogue further, illuminating the relationship between scent, vision and sound.
The connection to images is probably the first synesthetic journey our sensory perception embarks on when detecting a new scent. Most probably, this occurs because our sense of sight is the one we use most extensively. Consider, if you will . . .
The Visions and
Sounds of Esxence
By Nicola Pozzani
New Fragrance Releases
Here are just a few of some of the latest releases that we love...
I’m going to tell you a secret that I haven’t told many people, yet. I was completely caught off-guard in Milan.
It’s true. Directly after leaving Booth 21 at Esxence, I had to escape to the empty conference room to compose myself. With my eyes watering, I sat there asking myself, “What the hell just happened?”
Can a perfume strike such an emotional chord that it reduces a grown man to tears? It’s rare, but sure – it can happen. Prior to leaving for Italy, if you had told me that it was going to happen to me - that I was going to be that man, I would have told you, “nonsense.” . .
The year is 1861. Civil War rages in America, threatening to tear a nation apart. Across the Atlantic, Italy is consumed with its own battle – a battle for identity. Referred to as Il Risorgimento (The Resurgence), this political and social movement eventually led to the unification of several states into one mother state – Italy. The Italian peninsula has long fostered some of the greatest artists the world will ever know, and in many ways the history of Italian art is also the history of the whole of Western art, as well. In 1861, as the great agglomeration was moving forward at a rapid pace, the artistic sentiment of the Italian state turned towards nationalism. . .
Photographs by Raphaella Barkley
Here, you will find nothing but photographs from Milan, which many of you have been asking for! As you can tell, I had my hand kissed often. (Those gallant Italian and French men, nothing can compare!)
Field Notes
From Milan
by Mark David Boberick
When we find ourselves immersed in a different country and a new culture, how do we process our surroundings? Sensory impulses to the brain can shift into overdrive whenever they are overwhelmed by being in a new environment. Granted, for an American, Milan is not exactly the most exotic location that we can travel to, but there is no doubt about it –it sure is a beautiful one.
As I often have said, I go through life with nostrils flared. Arriving in Milan a few days early for Esxence: The Scent of Excellence, I prepared myself for a massive sensory overload. I was not disappointed. I’m reminded of what Neela Vermeire said in our cover story last month, describing her experiences and memories in India as being “pocketfuls of beautiful smells . . .
NEWS
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There's a few things I've learned in life: "always throw salt over your left shoulder, keep rosemary by your garden gate, plant lavender for good luck, and fall in love whenever you can” . Luberon is one of the latest creations of the talented Italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile... Other scents in the line are simply amazing, like Burlesque conjuring the up playful sexiness of ostrich red feathers, fishnet stockings and lace girdles...
THIS JUST IN! The Perfume Magazine scores
TWO 2012 FiFi Award Top-5 Finalist Nods
NEW YORK, NY - At the Fragrance Foundation's Annual FiFi Awards Finalists Breakfast, held on April 27, 2012 at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, The Perfume Magazine walked away with TWO of the Top-5 Finalist positions for the category, Editorial Excellence In Fragrance Coverage: Blog or E-Zine, adding to the 4 previous nominations garnered by the Magazine in 2009 and 2010. We are truly honored that two articles from our Winter Issue, Journey to the Heart of Fragrance, by Neil Sternberg and On Making Sense Out of Scents, by Elena Vosnaki were among the 5 Finalists. The winner of the 2012 FiFi Award for Editorial Excellence In Fragrance Coverage; Blog or E-Zine was Victoria Frolova of Bois de Jasmin for her article, Luxury vs. Function In Perfumery. Congratulations to our Finalists and to Victoria Frolova on her 2012 FiFi Award winning article! For full-coverage on all of the 2012 Finalists, visit the FiFi Awards Blog. The FiFi Awards will be held on Monday, May 21st at Lincoln Center. The Perfume Magazine is incredibly thrilled to be recognized by The Fragrance Foundation, once again! Just in: The Perfume Magazine goes to the FIFI'S!
