THEJUNEISSUE
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR:
June 8, 2012
These past few months have been an exciting time for the Perfume Magazine. From being interviewed by the Fragrance Foundation, traveling to Milan for the world-class event Esxence Milan, then on to New York City to attend the FiFi Breakfast New York City where The Perfume Magazine placed TWO of the Top-5 Finalist positions for the category of "Editorial Excellence In Fragrance Coverage Blog or E-Zine", adding to the 4 (now 6) previous nominations garnered by the Magazine in 2009 and 2010. We are truly honored that two articles, Journey to the Heart of Fragrance by Neil Sternberg and On Making Sense Out of Scents by Elena Vosnaki were among the 5 Top Finalists. Congratulations to our Finalists and you can view the articles here. Continuing my schedule, I flew back home, only to head back to New York City to attend the exciting 40th Anniversary of the FiFi Awards (which is one of our cover stories below)
A close friend of mine and a professional in the perfume industry recently said to me "In the world of perfume, the Americans always want to know what the French are doing and the French always want to know what the Americans are doing". I realized just how correct and brilliant his statement was. Thus, we will now offer regular reports from Paris from our “American in Paris”, new Paris Correspondent Sarah Colton, a professional journalist and international author. Her in-depth involvement in the French perfumery scene for many years, gives her an exciting edge and her first article covers the upcoming French FiFi Awards.
In this issue of The Perfume Magazine, we offer three cover stories which features coverage of the 40th Annual FiFi Awards, with over 35 photographs, links to the winners of the recent FiFi Awards, Part Two interview with industry giant Michael Edwards, and an in-depth look at Robert Piguet President and CEO Joe Garces that includes exclusive breaking news. In other news, I have been invited to be a judge of the “1st Annual ARTISAN FRAGRANCE SALON," this summer in San Francisco and the info is below. If you missed our last spectacular huge issue which is devoted to Esxence, view here. The winner of last months giveaway "of The Perfume Lover" book is Anita Berlanga.
RAPHAELLA BARKLEY | Editor In Chief 
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THE PERFUME MAGAZINE LOGO & BANNER
Perfume Magazine Brand Consultant: Tim Girvin
Our logo was created by GIRVIN | Strategic Branding, based in Seattle, NYC, and Tokyo. This is a specially built font that their design team created exclusively for Perfume Magazine. It is a custom cutting, redrawn and founded on a type design originated in 1798 by Giambattista Bodoni, drawn from the archives of Firmin Didot, an exemplar of luxurious design principles for hundreds of years. GIRVIN's team built the "fume" trail, as well as composited the arrangement of the bottles as part of the branding strategy.
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The logo and banner are property of The Perfume Magazine, LLC. and are protected by U.S.and international copyright laws.
© Copyright. 2012. All Rights Reserved. The Perfume Magazine LLC 2012
MISSED THE PREVIOUS ISSUES OF THE PERFUME MAGAZINE?
Catch up on what you missed, right here!
THE SPRING ISSUE - March 25, 2012
THE WINTER ISSUE Part Two - January 23, 2012
THE WINTER ISSUE Part One - December 30, 2011
THE HOLIDAY ISSUE - December 1, 2011
THE MENS ISSUE- November 1, 2011
THE FALL ISSUE- October 1, 2011
THE DEBUT ISSUE - September 10, 2011
THE FRAGRANCE
FOUNDATION
INTERVIEW:
"Up Close And Personal with
The Perfume Magazine’s
Raphaella Barkley"
The Joy of Smelling Italian
Maria Candida Gentile
By Marika Vecchiattini
Profile and Mini-Interview
Perspective:
Message in
a Bottle
Men's cologne ads have always been about sex on some level.
By Robert Klara
The largest advertising journal in the USA interviewed Marian Bendeth on her take on Men's fragrance advertising.
Nobile 1942
La danza delle Libellule
By Marika Vecchiattini
Massimo and Stefania Nobile, the couple owning Nobile 1942, chose Esxence exhibition, in Milan, to launch the new scent from their “Nobile1942” line: “La Danza delle Libellule/A Dance of Dragonflies”.
Maria Candida Gentile
Exclusive Fragrances:
Luberon
By Ermano Picco
A Taste of Esxence:
Parfums de Marly
by Raphaella Barkley
INSIDE: We are not compromising on the quality of the raw material investing a lot in the fragrances and working with . . .
A Taste of Esxence:
Prudence Paris
By Raphaella Barkley
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. Prudence Paris is owned and operated by Prudence Kigour and is a French niche perfumery.
I met Prudence in Milan and she shared with me her beautiful French Perfumes. She has a full line that includes 12 scents...
A Taste of Esxence:
Fleur de Café
By Raphaella Barkley
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. Join us for a quick peek inside Esxence and some of the perfume companies that were represented in Milan Italy. We spoke with Charlotte Robert of Fleur de Café.
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. We spoke with Nicolas Danila of Parfums Nicolas Danila Paris. An heiress of the Traditional French Perfumery...
Nicolas Danila with Pierre Dinard
A Taste of Esxence:
Parfums Nicolas Danila
By Raphaella Barkley
Italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile has just launched her new line of scents, called “the Exclusives”, which will soon join her regular offer in stores. The Exclusives (“Luberon", “Lady Day”, “Burlesque” and “Gentile”) are like scented polaroids, portaying places and people she feels a special connection to. “In the passion with which I approach the composition process! I'm Italian to the marrow: I'm a very instinctive and passionate person. And then, I love raw materials growing here. . .
The Perfume Magazine meets The Perfume Lover
An Interview with
Author Denyse Beaulieu
by Mark David Boberick
The world of fragrance, while seemingly vast, is in fact - not very large at all. And while there may be over 1200 new fragrances released in a calendar year, very few literary tomes dealing with the subject are published. So when a new volume on perfume launches, every fragrance fan around the globe pays attention. I recently sat down with Denyse Beaulieu at the Palazzo la Permanente in Milan, Italy, where Esxence was in full-swing, to discuss her new book, The Perfume Lover - this spring's must-read perfume book . . .
THE TAILORED SCENT
Italian Fragrances for the Modern Man
by Clayton Ilolahia
XERJOFF 1861
A Scent for Italy
By Mark David Boberick
"Fleur de Café is the first – and the only – perfume to use the essence of the coffee flower. That fragrance is so rich and powerful that I could not resist creating a perfume with it."
Fragrant Fiction: M. J. Rose
The Book of Lost Fragrances
By Lynn Morgan
Join us as The Perfume Magazine's new journalist, Lynn Morgan from People Magazine, In Style Magazine Antiques & Fine Art, LUXE, The Robb Report and the Los Angeles Times, goes in-depth and talks with international author M.J. Rose about her latest book and her love of perfume...During the course of her research, perfume became a haunting subtext that eventually moved to the forefront.
Interview with Frederick Bouchardy of Joya; Creator of “Ames Soeurs”
By Lynn Morgan
How did Âmes Soeurs come about?
We selected scents that had a religious or ritualistic flavor, and then we had our way with them! The top notes are tamarind, Cyprus and grapefruit; the middle is rose bulgur, ginger and orange blossom, and the dry-down is cedar wood, incense, amber and sweet musk, so the overall effect is orange blossoms, wrapped in smoke, incense and musk...
“In perfumes,
we seek our dreams.”
– M.J. Rose
Chandler Burr Guest Speaker
Save The Dates for Fragranze Pitti Immagine and The Art of Scent in New York City!
Chandler Burr; Special Guest at Fragranze Pitti 2012!
- Fragranze Pitti Immagine, September 14-16, 2012
- "The Art of Scent" and Gala Scent Dinner Opening Nov 12 and 13, 2012
Mr. Burr will be doing three things at the special event: he will be conducting an open talk to everyone at Fragranze, will be hosting a very special Pitti Fragranze “Scent Dinner, which he is very well known for, and finally, he will be creating a large exhibition in the Stazione Leopolda. Mr. Burr is known for his enthralling, educational and successful guest speaking forums. He will prove to be a huge asset at the event and The Perfume Magazine hopes to see Chandler Burr in Florence Italy! In other news....Chandler Burr, the Curator of Olfactory Arts at the Museum of Art and Design in New York City has announced the dates for “The Art of Scent”; November 13, 2012 through January 13, 2013. “The Art of Scent” at The Museum of Arts and Design Department of Olfactory Art will only be open for a limited showing so if you plan on attending, please note that the event closes on January 13th 2013, so you only have a two month window! The Museum of Arts and Design’s Visionaries! 2012 Scent Gala Monday, November 12th, Mandarin Oriental, New York City.
The Italian Spirit at Esxence 2012 Milan
by Giovanni Sammarco
L'italianità di una fiera. Cos'è l'italianità e cosa può essere l'italianità nel profumo?
In Italian and English
BOOK GIVEAWAY
The Perfume Lover
by Denyse Beaulieu
What if the most beautiful night in your life inspired a fragrance? The Perfume Lover is an unprecedented account of the creative process that goes into composing a fragrance, and a uniquely candid insider's view into the world and history of fragrance. Your world will never smell the same.
Robert Piguet Parfums Unveils “Nouvelle Collection de Robert Piguet”
The Perfume Magazine was fortunate enough to sample this collection in Milan!
Look for full coverage in our next issue!
A Taste of Esxence;
Neela Vermeire Créations
By Raphaella Barkley
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence, how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan, Italy. We spoke with Neela Vermeire of Neela Vermeire Créations, our Spring Cover Story.
"We created the India trio based on my concept and intense research into history of India combined with many olfactory memories. Bertrand could choose the quality of ingredients; three luminous perfumes as a tribute to three eras in India . . ."
The Fragrance Foundation Announces The 2012
Top Ten FiFi® Finalists
The Fragrance Foundation is pleased to share the 2012 Top Ten FiFi® Finalists.
GLEE Star, Jane Lynch, Hosts the 40th Anniversary FiFi® Awards on May 21, 2012 in NYC.
The Fragrance Foundation is positively ‘gleeful’ and honored to announce that Emmy and Golden Globe Winner, star of the mega-hit series Glee, the incomparable Jane Lynch will host this year’s 40th Anniversary FiFi Awards at the prestigious Alice Tully Hall, Lincoln Center on May 21st....
Images from
MILAN
PARFUMS
NICOLAS DANILA PARIS
Bottles by Pierre Dinard
Robert Piquet President Joe Garces at Esxence Milan!
Special thanks to Extrait, Joe Garces and Silvio Levi.
Robert Piguet Parfums is pleased to unveil “Nouvelle Collection de Robert Piguet,” a range of ultra-luxe distinctive scents. This special collection was created by Master Perfumer Aurelien Guichard of Givaudan Paris. Experience the lure of these cutting-edge fragrances designed to complement the existing range of classic perfumes. This special collection includes Bois Noir, OUD, Casbah, Notes and Mademoiselle Piguet de Robert Piguet. Coming next issue! Exclusive interviews with President Joe Garces and Perfumer Aurelien Guichard, PLUS Profiles of the entire Nouvelle Collection
Mark Twain once said, “Clothes make the man.” At face value, this could seem like a superficial comment – as we all know it’s what’s inside that counts… right? However, many theorists would agree with Mark Twain’s sentiments that first impressions are created within seconds of meeting someone. These same theorists would also agree that more than 50 percent of communication occurs non-verbally. Given this, you begin to see the way we communicate ourselves to others, simply through the way we dress. . .
NEWS
NEWS
AMERINDIAN
GARDENS
Parfums Nicolas Danila
By Mark David Boberick
The body of my work in life focuses on creating training experiences around scents via the cross-sensory experience, also called synesthesia. By providing a reference to it, the sensory stimuli from our other senses help us to detect and study the scent message. This past March at Esxence, I was fortunate enough to come across several references to this approach that take the synesthetic dialogue further, illuminating the relationship between scent, vision and sound.
The connection to images is probably the first synesthetic journey our sensory perception embarks on when detecting a new scent. Most probably, this occurs because our sense of sight is the one we use most extensively. Consider, if you will . . .
The Visions and
Sounds of Esxence
By Nicola Pozzani
New Fragrance Releases
Here are just a few of some of the latest releases that we love...
I’m going to tell you a secret that I haven’t told many people, yet. I was completely caught off-guard in Milan.
It’s true. Directly after leaving Booth 21 at Esxence, I had to escape to the empty conference room to compose myself. With my eyes watering, I sat there asking myself, “What the hell just happened?”
Can a perfume strike such an emotional chord that it reduces a grown man to tears? It’s rare, but sure – it can happen. Prior to leaving for Italy, if you had told me that it was going to happen to me - that I was going to be that man, I would have told you, “nonsense.” . .
The year is 1861. Civil War rages in America, threatening to tear a nation apart. Across the Atlantic, Italy is consumed with its own battle – a battle for identity. Referred to as Il Risorgimento (The Resurgence), this political and social movement eventually led to the unification of several states into one mother state – Italy. The Italian peninsula has long fostered some of the greatest artists the world will ever know, and in many ways the history of Italian art is also the history of the whole of Western art, as well. In 1861, as the great agglomeration was moving forward at a rapid pace, the artistic sentiment of the Italian state turned towards nationalism. . .
Photographs by
Raphaella Barkley
Here, you will find nothing but photographs from Milan, which many of you have been asking for! As you can tell, I had my hand kissed often. (Those gallant Italian and French men, nothing can compare!)
Field Notes
From Milan
by Mark David Boberick
When we find ourselves immersed in a different country and a new culture, how do we process our surroundings? Sensory impulses to the brain can shift into overdrive whenever they are overwhelmed by being in a new environment. Granted, for an American, Milan is not exactly the most exotic location that we can travel to, but there is no doubt about it –it sure is a beautiful one.
As I often have said, I go through life with nostrils flared. Arriving in Milan a few days early for Esxence: The Scent of Excellence, I prepared myself for a massive sensory overload. I was not disappointed. I’m reminded of what Neela Vermeire said in our cover story last month, describing her experiences and memories in India as being “pocketfuls of beautiful smells . . .
NEWS
There's a few things I've learned in life: "always throw salt over your left shoulder, keep rosemary by your garden gate, plant lavender for good luck, and fall in love whenever you can” . Luberon is one of the latest creations of the talented Italian perfumer Maria Candida Gentile... Other scents in the line are simply amazing, like Burlesque conjuring the up playful sexiness of ostrich red feathers, fishnet stockings and lace girdles...
There are basic rules that govern the gender or language of fragrance. Heavy resins, woods or leathery quinolines can colour a floral note with a sense of masculinity. The same floral note paired with aldehydes and musk becomes feminine. These concepts were forged at the beginning of the 20th century, the period that gave birth to modern perfumery. From this time, we see perfumers beginning to create abstract works of art; a perfume became conceptual instead of being the smell of a single flower such as violet or rose. Coco Chanel famously said that roses smell nice, but she did not understand why a woman would want to smell like roses. She requested perfumer, Ernest Beaux to make something that was entirely new, something mysterious. In 1921, Chanel launched No. 5 and it has been a symbol of femininity for almost a century. During the birth of modern perfumery, masculinity was cast as a powdery fresh fern. . .
A Perfume Magazine Exclusive
MICHAEL EDWARDS
Expert and Author, Fragrances of the World
By Mark David Boberick
and Raphaella Barkley
I first met Michael Edwards in New York City in December of 2008 and sat down with him immediately following an impressive 2-hour master class that he had given which offered an incredible overview on his body of work. In that discussion, which was the first time in nearly ten years that Edwards had granted an interview, we talked about the foundations of his research and his entry into the fragrance industry.
When Michael Edwards speaks, you can become rather caught off guard by his eloquent brilliance and completely lose your train of thought after he says something utterly profound...
Exploring
Masculinity
in Perfumery
by Clayton Ilolahia
Mark David Boberick for Pier 1 Imports
Our Managing Editor was recently commissioned by Pier 1 Imports to write a how-to article on creating a Fragrance Wardrobe for the Home.
Pier 1 Imports also recently launched a brand-new collection of home fragrances, entitled The Signature Collection which features six fragrant blends created by master perfumers. The range consists of candles and diffusers that feature a higher, stronger concentration of fragrant oils.
How do you take an iconic French fragrance house with a range that includes some of the most legendary perfume masterpieces the world has ever known, and plant it firmly and distinctly into the perfume-crazed 21st Century? The simple answer: you hire Joe Garces. With the recent release of the Nouvelle Collection of 5 brand-new fragrances, Robert Piguet Parfums continues to take the luxury fragrance market head on. With Garces at the helm, no detail is ever overlooked.
As President and CEO of the brand since 1992, Joe Garces is one of the hardest working men in the fragrance industry...
TRUSTEE OF THE LEGACY
Joe Garces,
President of Robert Piguet Parfums
Releases The Nouvelle Collection
by Mark David Boberick
THE ESXENCE / ITALIAN ISSUE - APRIL 24, 2012
Join
The Perfume Magazine
at the 1st Annual ARTISAN
FRAGRANCE SALON, July 8th, 2012 in San Francisco.
The Perfume Magazines Editor-In-Chief; Raphaella Barkley, has been invited to be a judge in the 1st Artisan Fragrance Salon in San Francisco, CA
This event is now closed.
The winner of last months giveaway "of The Perfume Lover" book is
Please contact me on your name link. Thanks to everyone for participation!
BRITISH SOCIETY OF PERFUMERS
PRESENTS:
Perfume:
Space and Body for the Human Experience
An interactive, sensory presentation with
Nicola Pozzani
- S Sense
Thursday, 21st June 2012 - 6.30 pm
London, UK
Join our dear friend and contributor, Nicola Pozzani at this event in London! The sense of smell is an untapped human resource and perfume...
We asked some of our new friends at Esxence-The Scent of Excellence how they fared at the recent sold out event in Milan Italy. We spoke with Caroline Ilacqua, President of Téo Cabanel.
It was very exciting to meet perfume lovers from all over the world! It also shows that people can have a very different perception of a perfume whether they come from Asia, America, Europe or the Middle East...
Click on the Beauty Fashion Cover on the left or the lower link to read the May, 2012 issue of Beauty Fashion Magazine.
My article on Esxence Milan is on page 41 & page 55.
Just flip the pages to read all the insustry news!
A Taste of Esxence;
Téo Cabanel
Casbah Perfume Review
Robert Piguet Parfums
New Release
By Christine Lewandowski
"When Robert Piguet Parfums launches a new scent the fragrance world takes note. When Robert Piguet Parfums launches five new scents, this is cause for perfume lovers everywhere to celebrate. Especially when the scents are as good as these five..."
The Perfume Magazine scores TWO 2012 FiFi Award Top-5 Finalist Nods and the Winners of the FiFi Awards!
At the Fragrance Foundation's Annual FiFi Awards Finalists Breakfast, held in NYC at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, The Perfume Magazine walked away with TWO of the Top-5 Finalist positions for the category, Editorial Excellence In Fragrance Coverage: Blog or E-Zine, adding to the 4 previous nominations garnered by the Magazine in 2009 and 2010. We are truly honored that two article, Journey to the Heart of Fragrance, by Neil Sternberg and On Making Sense Out of Scents, by Elena Vosnaki were among the 5 Finalists. Congratulations to our wonderful contributors!
Here are the FiFi Winners 40th Anniversary of the FiFi Awards...
20 Years of the ‘Best Feminine’ & ‘Best Masculine’ Perfumes and Perfumers
Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of the French Fifis
By Sarah Colton
If you love perfume, this is a must see article...with wonderful pictures and pictures of French Perfumers and Perfumes - RB
"To add to the emotion, there was an international sizzle in the air as results of the American Fifis, which had taken place the previous evening in New York, were just beginning to make their way across the Atlantic..."
THE PERFUME MAGAZINE GOES TO THE FIFI'S!
Carthusia’s beautiful new perfume “Forget Ne Not” Capri verily defies my expectations of what that sort of fragrance should be.
This fragrance makes me dream of Italy, of bowls of fresh figs and creamy burrata cheese...the soft marine smell of the sea and coastal flowers...
Carthusia “Forget Me Not” Capri
New Perfume Review
New Release in Europe
By Beth Schreibman Gehring
By Raphaella Barkley, Editor-In-Chief
"I was enthralled the moment the event started; from the ultra glamorous red carpet, to the people-watching in the lobby prior to the show, to gulping my champagne as I rushed down to my seat, to meeting Nicole Richie and Carol Alt before the show, to the break-neck opening video where the audience cheered wildly for their favorite perfume, to the emotional and touching “Legacy of Excellence Tribute” to Evelyn Lauder of Estée Lauder...The crowd roared its approval and love...
The Proliferation of Perfume Communication
A Commentary by Marian Bendeth, Global Fragrance Expert
What is fascinating is that critics sprung up everywhere, too and most had a public opinion on something. Freedom of speech had reached the web and the world. Fragrance bloggers, some with creative names hiding their true identities, have garnered a following unprecedented in the print world, and cliques and followers formed around the globe. It appears that some fragrances, perfumers and individuals have sometimes become public bashing piñatas for fun or boredom or both. Of course the perfume community cannot lay sole claim to this kind of behavior. This power of the invisible majority may have the ability to shut down a hot spot or new niche product launch very quickly.
Similarly, their power can also pluck obscure individuals and brands and thrust them into the limelight as well. However far-reaching their power may be, they have little effect on the mainstream fragrance market which typically attracts a very different consumer. Other fragrance industry folk are just plain insulted. After working for years in their careers and honing their skills through practice, advancement and accreditation, they read something inaccurate by someone who purports to be someone they are not or bashing a fragrance without explanation which gathers momentum with each post and this has caused a lot of anger and frustration in certain circles...
The Perfume Magazine is honored to feature this ground breaking article, we are the first publication to produce something about this subject, that hits home for many...Kudos to Marian Bendeth.
